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Old 11-26-2001, 03:29 PM   #1
espionage
 
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Can my EX handle this??

I have a 95 EX and plan on installing the following system. I am wanting to know if my alternator or "car" can handle the power.

Rockford Fosgate 360 watt amp
Rockford Fosgate 400 watt amp
2 12" JL Audio w3 subs (250 rms a piece)

THanks!
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Old 11-26-2001, 03:45 PM   #2
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The watt numbers for your amps are RMS right?

Your car has a/c, so your alternator is around 65-75 amps.


You can still install that system in your car. If you use it in a reasonable way you wont have any problems.


That means..

Dont run it too long at full intensity while the car is @ idle. Obviously your lights will flash, but more importantly, you'll be putting tremandeaous stress on the alternator (each time the lights dim). Which will lead to premature failure of the alt.

Even during daily driving, dont always run the system @ full intensity.. Because, even when rolling, your alternator wont put out enough to compensate the demande of your system @ full power. Basically, it wont be able to charge the battery.



But I'D say you can get it.. Use it wisely, when the alternator decides to go, then put a better one in.. Around 150 amps should do. Then you can go nuts 24/7!


::

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-26-2001, 03:51 PM   #3
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What if I added a capacitor? I am also looking at a 130 amp alternator. Will the alternator put a strain on the engine?

Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2001, 04:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by espionage
What if I added a capacitor? I am also looking at a 130 amp alternator. Will the alternator put a strain on the engine?

Thanks!

A cap is always a good idea. It isolates the alternator in some sort from the stereo (or whatever behind the cap.).
Wha it means, is that it reduces the peak effect (peak current draw) on the alternator. The alternator feels only a certain percent of the stress.


130 amps, you will be more than fine.. But like I said, when @ Idle, you may experience dimming.

But I hope you're not going to swap out the alternator that you have right now? Wait till it gives out..



Unless you are out to compete or something..
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Old 11-26-2001, 07:40 PM   #5
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Since we are on the sound subject, what is the size of the front speakers. I measured and got 6.25" diameter but the depth is so small.
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Old 11-26-2001, 08:33 PM   #6
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For a 95 Civic Ex..




The diameter should be 6.5 inches up front.


As for the depth, depending if you got a coupe or sedan.. you could drop in down to

coupe : 1 11/16 inches
sedan : 2 inches

But you could remove the basket in which the speaker mounts.. It'll give you enough clearence for most 6.5 speakers.


In the future, post your audio questions in the *Sound Sytem* forum, you'll get more responses from there. Plus I'll spot them faster.


I moved this one.
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Old 11-26-2001, 08:42 PM   #7
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OOPS! My bad. Will the Sony XS-V1621s work. They are 6.5" and depth of 1.75"? I have one last question for you. I will be getting the RF Punch 400.4 (mids) and 500.2 (subs). How do I wire my midranges to be 2 ohms and each getting 100 watts? And how do I wire my 2 12" JL w3s to get 250 watts each? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm a newbie at this stuff.
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Old 11-26-2001, 08:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by espionage
OOPS! My bad. Will the Sony XS-V1621s work. They are 6.5" and depth of 1.75"? I have one last question for you. I will be getting the RF Punch 400.4 (mids) and 500.2 (subs). How do I wire my midranges to be 2 ohms and each getting 100 watts? And how do I wire my 2 12" JL w3s to get 250 watts each? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm a newbie at this stuff.


4 midrange speakers into @ 100watts rms each? You cant.
here's what you can do 4 x 50 w rms.
I'm guessing you misunderstood the specs.. But hey, 4 x 50 is plenty.


For the 500.2.
Hopefully, you got the 12w3's with the dual 4 ohm voice coils.
So you'd basically, series both voice coils on each sub. that would give you 8ohms for each sub. then parallel the 2 subs. to achieve a mono (1 channel) 4 ohm load to the amp.
Cause your amp gives 500 x 1 @ 4ohms.



thats the idea..

Gotta go.

If you need help, I'll be back tomorow.




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Old 11-27-2001, 01:57 AM   #9
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caps friends, caps

here....
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1300070978
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Old 11-27-2001, 07:31 AM   #10
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Thank you demonic..Indeed a Farad Cap would help out and relieve the stress from that alternator alittle..

Or if you look on ebay there is a seller that has upgraded Alternators that he sells for I think 135 and they put out 155 AMPS if I'm right..Check it out

Hope this might help alittle.
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Old 11-27-2001, 11:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by DemonicAccord
caps friends, caps

here....
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1300070978

LOL that seller has no record!
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Old 11-27-2001, 02:46 PM   #12
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just an example of price


here...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1301952458
enough of a history?

got my sub and 6.1s from him, fast and cheap...and btw, thats $100 shipped for a digital monitor top!
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Old 11-27-2001, 02:56 PM   #13
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You could also get a battery isolator and put another battery in the trunk.That is what I did,I got a red top optima battery that just runs my system.
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Old 11-27-2001, 03:13 PM   #14
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spiral cell batteries are the shiz if you have the $$, other wise Dyna-Bats are another quality option for less money
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Old 11-27-2001, 04:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by DemonicAccord
just an example of price


here...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1301952458
enough of a history?

got my sub and 6.1s from him, fast and cheap...and btw, thats $100 shipped for a digital monitor top!

LOL

I didnt mean it that way..

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Old 11-27-2001, 05:40 PM   #16
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I know, I'm just sharing.
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Old 11-27-2001, 07:01 PM   #17
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its cool.
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Old 11-27-2001, 08:24 PM   #18
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So do you think I will be all right without the capacitor and with the 130 amp alternator?? Below is the link to it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598274035&r=0&t=0&show Tutorial=0&ed=1006974739&indexURL=0&rd=1
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Old 11-27-2001, 08:52 PM   #19
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Seems good to me..


but a cap is always a good idea.. to protect the alternator in some sort.

Worth it if ya ask me.
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Old 12-05-2001, 02:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord Man


For the 500.2.
Hopefully, you got the 12w3's with the dual 4 ohm voice coils.
So you'd basically, series both voice coils on each sub. that would give you 8ohms for each sub. then parallel the 2 subs. to achieve a mono (1 channel) 4 ohm load to the amp.
Cause your amp gives 500 x 1 @ 4ohms.


That's exactly how i had mine
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Old 12-05-2001, 02:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord Man
Seems good to me..


but a cap is always a good idea.. to protect the alternator in some sort.

Worth it if ya ask me.


What do you think of the Bat caps?
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:24 PM   #22
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Should I even worry about hooking up an amp to my midranges? There are 2 6.5" Sony speakers in the front (130W) and 2 6.5" Pioneer speakers in the back (180W). Both of those are peak wattage. Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2001, 07:48 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by 93chromeacc



What do you think of the Bat caps?

they are fine and will work fine..
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Old 12-06-2001, 07:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by espionage
Should I even worry about hooking up an amp to my midranges? There are 2 6.5" Sony speakers in the front (130W) and 2 6.5" Pioneer speakers in the back (180W). Both of those are peak wattage. Thanks!


For daily listening its not necessary.. but if you plan on turning it up once in while.. then yes.

Your speakers should be around 65wrms and 90 wrms respectively.



If you are the least bit serious about the quality/intensity of the sound you want to achieve in your car, I highly suggest an amp for the interior.
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Old 12-06-2001, 02:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord Man


they are fine and will work fine..

But are they really worth it/that much better than the regular power caps?
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Old 12-06-2001, 02:54 PM   #26
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if you could post a link..

with all the details of the particular model.. with price and all..

I could be much more precise.
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Old 12-07-2001, 11:18 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord Man
if you could post a link..

with all the details of the particular model.. with price and all..

I could be much more precise.


http://www.batcap.net/
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Old 12-08-2001, 03:43 PM   #28
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Depending on certain factors..

both will isolate (somewhat) the alternator.

Though the cap does a better job at this.

But the batcap, will be able to hold on for longer.


So if you have a bug alternator that suites the purpose, then a cap would be the way to go.


But If you have a big ass system without the adequat alternator power, then a batcap will be able to save your behind for a longer period of time and/or at a higher intensity..



I wouldnt go for a batcap, cause I dont need that much power on that long of a period of time. Even if I did, I'd rather upgrade the alternator first/with a regular cap..



How much do they go for?
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Old 12-08-2001, 11:26 PM   #29
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I have another question for you Accord Man. Kind of off topic but will there be rubbing on my 95 Civic with 205/40/17 with stock suspension?

Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2001, 01:08 PM   #30
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If you give me the offset of the rims, I could be more precise..

But no.. It wont rub on stock suspension. Unless you throw a thousand pounds in your car, and take curves at 80 mph..
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Old 12-09-2001, 01:15 PM   #31
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They are Konig Imagines.

17X7 4-100 40S

40 offset
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Old 12-09-2001, 01:43 PM   #32
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ha ha

for some reason, when I read your preceding post, I had those rims in mind...


Anyways, you'll be fine with those. You'll also be able to lower the car (nothing extreme..) without any problems.
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