.:HSTuners::

2ndGenTeg · 01-25-2002, 05:25 PM

I'm just curious about a couple of things:

1. Why would you run a B18C crank in a B18A block? I'm all about the B18C crank over the B18A/B (better rod ratio due to shorter stroke, better lubrication, etc.), but why not just run it in a B18C block? You won't see any displacement advantage since you're using the B18C crank, so there's really no point in using a B18A block. You would save yourself the trouble of machining the block, as well as avoid the problem of:

2. The B18C block has a taller deck height than the B18A. How are you planning to get a B18C spec crank and B18C spec rods in a B18A block? You could weld on deck height, but it seems it would be much easier to just use a B18C.

As for the header, go with something with longer primaries and a 2.5" collector. The JDM 4-1, Spoon, Mugen, SMSP 4-2-1, or HyTech 4-2-1 would all work fine. I would also get whatever you choose heat coated (i.e. jet hot).

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01-25-2002, 05:25 PM	#13
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 45 Posts: 830	I'm just curious about a couple of things: 1. Why would you run a B18C crank in a B18A block? I'm all about the B18C crank over the B18A/B (better rod ratio due to shorter stroke, better lubrication, etc.), but why not just run it in a B18C block? You won't see any displacement advantage since you're using the B18C crank, so there's really no point in using a B18A block. You would save yourself the trouble of machining the block, as well as avoid the problem of: 2. The B18C block has a taller deck height than the B18A. How are you planning to get a B18C spec crank and B18C spec rods in a B18A block? You could weld on deck height, but it seems it would be much easier to just use a B18C. As for the header, go with something with longer primaries and a 2.5" collector. The JDM 4-1, Spoon, Mugen, SMSP 4-2-1, or HyTech 4-2-1 would all work fine. I would also get whatever you choose heat coated (i.e. jet hot).