.:HSTuners::

blind34_1 · 08-05-2004, 04:37 PM

Okay, more problems with my rear disc swap. this was supposed to be easy!

I just bought new cables from partsbin.com, and I went to install them, but I get the same problem I had with the old cables. I can still spin the hub with my hand, and it barely scrapes.

THe only thing I think it would be is these new cables I ordered seem to be like 1/2" longer than the old ones. But aren't any cables from a 90-93 integra supposed to work with a 90 civic?

Any ideas, or things I'm doing wrong?

*pdiggitydogg* · 08-05-2004, 06:00 PM

man...suck-o

Did you make sure to attach all the brackets?

blind34_1 · 08-06-2004, 02:16 AM

Yes, as difficult as some of them were I was able to...the only thing is on one of them (passenger side cable) I used a bolt with a shorter shank so I could fit it in around the gas tank lip.

If those brackets are loose at all (example, the one above the gas tank lip) would that cause my problem?

and I had an idea, if I were to "cross-over" the cables before they go through the rubber portal thingy (the thing that covers the hole that you stick the cables up through) that might shorten them up. of course it might shorten them too much, and may cause binding issues. but at this point I'm willing to try anything.

*pdiggitydogg* · 08-06-2004, 06:39 AM

I wouldnt think a loose braket would cause as much of a problem as youre making it sound...I mean it should still tighten it up at least to make some resistance.

I remember messing up mine where the cable connected to the caliper and having to redo that twice...check there I guess (Im running out of ideas...)

Well hey, youve got nothing else to lose, so try the cross-over idea...though I dont think it will really work and depending on the angle you could bend the line (try it and see).

Im sure you already tried the adjuster nut on the brake handle.

Man this is pretty strange... Most people have issues w/ one being way too tight and one being loose because of it - cable stretch over about a week fixes that...

blind34_1 · 08-08-2004, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pdiggitydogg

I remember messing up mine where the cable connected to the caliper and having to redo that twice...

what do you mean here? the big 'ole bracket that holds the cable with that clip? I figured that out (its much easier when you remove the bracket.)

The adjusting nut makes a very small difference, but I can still turn it super easy. I can turn the nut so far that it fully compresses the spring and still nothing.

My last resort is to call an old acquiantance how did the same swap on the same car and see how he did it.

*pdiggitydogg* · 08-08-2004, 04:12 PM

When I first assembled it I didnt put the cable end through a hole...thats all.

Ok, so if you tighten the nut all the way it compresses the caliper spring and it still rotates? Do the calipers compress fully when you press the pedal?

blind34_1 · 08-09-2004, 08:29 PM

the thing is, i haven't bled the system yet. I've got some more parts I'm waiting on to install (integra master cyl, brake booster, 4040 prop valve), so I figure I'll wait on putting fluid in seeing as how I'll have to drain it all out again.

I plan on putting all those parts in once I pull the old motor; you know, some room to work.

But you do bring up a good point, maybe the remaned calipers are no good. The only way to really check is to see if they work by hydraulic means.

oh well, getting the cables to work isn't really time sensitive, and I don't think they would take the cables back after I've installed them.

*pdiggitydogg* · 08-09-2004, 08:45 PM

yeah right now youve got 2 pts against you for testing.
Granted, the caliper should close if the cables are taught...but you cant even check that they DO close until you get some fluid in there.

I put a huge itr booster and mc in w/ the motor still in...along w/ the prop valve. If youre not changing the motor just go ahead and change your brake parts.

You should hit up girlracer, man. She put rear discs on her rex awhile ago...see what cables she used (though it couldve been rex cables) Id think the civic and rex would be similar enough (like teg and civic)

ebpda9 · 08-09-2004, 09:01 PM

i have the same problem with the teg and the rear disks came standard on it. i have some room for adjutament on the e-brake lever tho. i think i can adjust it one more inch. all my problems started when i had to remove the rear right caliper and spindle. never bothered adjusting them since i don 't really use the e-brake anymore

blind34_1 · 08-10-2004, 04:26 PM

crx's are different. if you are taking crx trailing arms and putting them onto a civic, you use crx cables. nice and simple.

now supposedly any 90-93 parts work for 4th gen civics. but I think before I exert any more energy on this, I'll test the hydraulic system. I don't want to, but I'm left with no choice. thanks.

blind34_1 · 08-11-2004, 12:07 AM

and by the way, I just compared part numbers. All 90-93 Integra LS, RS, GS 3 doors have the same part number (and chassis code: da9), and all 90-93 Integra LS, RS, GS 4 doors have a different part number (and chassis code: db1)

I have the da9 cables, which should be right because on my trailing arm it has stamped on it: DA. But of course that shouldn't matter. The cable length my be different, but again that doesn't apply to my case.

oh well, just fyi.

08-05-2004, 04:37 PM	#1
blind34_1 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: IL Age: 41 Posts: 1,813	ebrake cable woes...help Okay, more problems with my rear disc swap. this was supposed to be easy! I just bought new cables from partsbin.com, and I went to install them, but I get the same problem I had with the old cables. I can still spin the hub with my hand, and it barely scrapes. THe only thing I think it would be is these new cables I ordered seem to be like 1/2" longer than the old ones. But aren't any cables from a 90-93 integra supposed to work with a 90 civic? Any ideas, or things I'm doing wrong?

08-09-2004, 09:01 PM	#9
ebpda9 Repost Wagon Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: over here Age: 44 Posts: 17,266	i have the same problem with the teg and the rear disks came standard on it. i have some room for adjutament on the e-brake lever tho. i think i can adjust it one more inch. all my problems started when i had to remove the rear right caliper and spindle. never bothered adjusting them since i don 't really use the e-brake anymore __________________

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08-05-2004, 06:00 PM	#2
pdiggitydogg Yahoo Watashi wa kattaze! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Meanwhile, up in The D... Age: 42 Posts: 10,579	man...suck-o Did you make sure to attach all the brackets?

08-06-2004, 02:16 AM	#3
blind34_1 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: IL Age: 41 Posts: 1,813	Yes, as difficult as some of them were I was able to...the only thing is on one of them (passenger side cable) I used a bolt with a shorter shank so I could fit it in around the gas tank lip. If those brackets are loose at all (example, the one above the gas tank lip) would that cause my problem? and I had an idea, if I were to "cross-over" the cables before they go through the rubber portal thingy (the thing that covers the hole that you stick the cables up through) that might shorten them up. of course it might shorten them too much, and may cause binding issues. but at this point I'm willing to try anything.

08-06-2004, 06:39 AM	#4
pdiggitydogg Yahoo Watashi wa kattaze! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Meanwhile, up in The D... Age: 42 Posts: 10,579	I wouldnt think a loose braket would cause as much of a problem as youre making it sound...I mean it should still tighten it up at least to make some resistance. I remember messing up mine where the cable connected to the caliper and having to redo that twice...check there I guess (Im running out of ideas...) Well hey, youve got nothing else to lose, so try the cross-over idea...though I dont think it will really work and depending on the angle you could bend the line (try it and see). Im sure you already tried the adjuster nut on the brake handle. Man this is pretty strange... Most people have issues w/ one being way too tight and one being loose because of it - cable stretch over about a week fixes that...

08-08-2004, 04:12 PM	#6
pdiggitydogg Yahoo Watashi wa kattaze! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Meanwhile, up in The D... Age: 42 Posts: 10,579	When I first assembled it I didnt put the cable end through a hole...thats all. Ok, so if you tighten the nut all the way it compresses the caliper spring and it still rotates? Do the calipers compress fully when you press the pedal?

08-09-2004, 08:29 PM	#7
blind34_1 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: IL Age: 41 Posts: 1,813	the thing is, i haven't bled the system yet. I've got some more parts I'm waiting on to install (integra master cyl, brake booster, 4040 prop valve), so I figure I'll wait on putting fluid in seeing as how I'll have to drain it all out again. I plan on putting all those parts in once I pull the old motor; you know, some room to work. But you do bring up a good point, maybe the remaned calipers are no good. The only way to really check is to see if they work by hydraulic means. oh well, getting the cables to work isn't really time sensitive, and I don't think they would take the cables back after I've installed them.

08-09-2004, 08:45 PM	#8
pdiggitydogg Yahoo Watashi wa kattaze! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Meanwhile, up in The D... Age: 42 Posts: 10,579	yeah right now youve got 2 pts against you for testing. Granted, the caliper should close if the cables are taught...but you cant even check that they DO close until you get some fluid in there. I put a huge itr booster and mc in w/ the motor still in...along w/ the prop valve. If youre not changing the motor just go ahead and change your brake parts. You should hit up girlracer, man. She put rear discs on her rex awhile ago...see what cables she used (though it couldve been rex cables) Id think the civic and rex would be similar enough (like teg and civic)

08-10-2004, 04:26 PM	#10
blind34_1 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: IL Age: 41 Posts: 1,813	crx's are different. if you are taking crx trailing arms and putting them onto a civic, you use crx cables. nice and simple. now supposedly any 90-93 parts work for 4th gen civics. but I think before I exert any more energy on this, I'll test the hydraulic system. I don't want to, but I'm left with no choice. thanks.

08-11-2004, 12:07 AM	#11
blind34_1 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: IL Age: 41 Posts: 1,813	and by the way, I just compared part numbers. All 90-93 Integra LS, RS, GS 3 doors have the same part number (and chassis code: da9), and all 90-93 Integra LS, RS, GS 4 doors have a different part number (and chassis code: db1) I have the da9 cables, which should be right because on my trailing arm it has stamped on it: DA. But of course that shouldn't matter. The cable length my be different, but again that doesn't apply to my case. oh well, just fyi.