please Help! JDM engine differences..

Ok as some of u know already with some of my posts, I have made up my decision and decided to install a 93-95 JDM spec H22a prelude Type S engine in my hatchback. My question is how do I tell the difference between that JDM type S engine and some other inferior H22 like the "H22a1" that only produces 190 HP. I just want to make sure I get the 220 HP JDM engine. THe only signifying mark that I am aware of at this point is that this engine comes with the engine code of "H22a" with no other numbers or letters signifying it. Is this right? Is there anything else? Thanks everyone.

[pdiggitydogg]

you ask when you order...if you get it from a reputable place (HMotorsOnline.com) then you will get what you asked for

right, jdm motors dont have the last digit

Originally posted by pdiggitydogg
you ask when you order...if you get it from a reputable place (HMotorsOnline.com) then you will get what you asked for

right, jdm motors dont have the last digit

I have used Hmotorsonline.com b4. I was happy with my service from them but unfortunately I dont live in the states right now.

[ebpda9]

was there a type s in the 93-96 model years ? i know for the us they used the f22a4 for the prelude S

[pdiggitydogg]

ya know...it was 97-01 for that

the closest youre gonna get to 220 is 200 for those yrs
check it out
http://www.hondaswap.com/reference/i...hp?mode=engine

Hmotorsonline = Homosonline

Im not even gonna begin to start.

[nonovurbizniz]

Are you sure you know what you're getting into going for the h22 "swap"???

[ebpda9]

Originally posted by cashizslick
Hmotorsonline = Homosonline

Im not even gonna begin to start.

are u ever happy with an online store ? or are you ever happy ? jfwy

[IALuder]

^ wonders the samething.........jk

Originally posted by nonovurbizniz
Are you sure you know what you're getting into going for the h22 "swap"???

yes I do. Done alot of research, and I know what price range I am looking at.

[AkimboStylee]

if you need a good price go to:
www.flashoptions.com
they are out of japan, and claim to sell jdm engines, front clips, and whole cars,
just a thought!

[silver]

Originally posted by Honda_Tengoku
yes I do. Done alot of research, and I know what price range I am looking at.

well i am assuming on this...but i think he was not referring to price, but rather the car itself. have you driven an H powered hb before? that would be the first thing i would have done.

Originally posted by silver
well i am assuming on this...but i think he was not referring to price, but rather the car itself. have you driven an H powered hb before? that would be the first thing i would have done.

not yet. But I am sure he hasnt either. I am sure not many have in this forum. People are just too plain scared to do this to their car. They take advice from others who dont know what they are talking about. I have talked to people first hand that have done this swap. These people are very reliable sources. As well as I am going to tweak the spring rates and do severe weight reduction to the car. I believe a Civic can handle pretty well with this swap. Yes that is my believe! U see its not so much the weight of it, is where the weight is. U see it adds weight way far forward of the front CV axles, cuz the engine is so big it has to sit very far forward. Now a 6th gen Civic is a better candidate for an H22 swap than a 5th gen Civic. Why? Cuz the engine sits farther back! About 1.5 inches. Even though that doesnt seem much, it still will make a difference. Rumor has it the chassis is also a bit stiffer than the 5th gen Civics (thats why the 6th gen civics are heavier). So if I reduce the weight of the front (especially in front of the axles) with the proper spring rates I should be ok. I know it will never handle as well as a D series Civic with a bad a$% suspension but it still will blow away a stock one, and will be very comparable to a B series turbo swap in a Civic. U see a B series turbo swap u have to realize the weight u are adding their too. If u add a heavy cast iron turbo manifold, turbo, and an intercooler where is all your weight added at? Its all in front of the CV's in the front! Yes making it more front heavy! So people that have done this add what about 50 pounds to the front end? Thats a good chunk of weight in the front end isnt it? People dont complain about handing problems on a B series turbo engine in a Civic do they? I am going to remove the heat shield and all the splash guards, the bumper, relocate the battery to the rear of the car, use a carbon fiber hood, as well as other small weight reduction items. Ohh and I am thinking about usiing 500 pound springs in the front, and 400 pound springs in the rear. I think that should answer the doubts about this.

[silver]

well at least you have thought it out. having driven an h powered hatch it is an awesome power trip for such a little car, but it does take some getting used to. as for turboed motors the amount of weight added is not really much. most of the time you've stripped out parts from the engine bay such as the a/c plus cf hood and maybe relocate the battery to the back...so you're really breaking even. the only weight you're adding is the intercooler and the turbo and the piping. the manifold is likely to be the same weight as the log manifold that comes stock on the car.

but good luck with that and remember that the suspension is the most important part of the setup.

[AzCivic]

hey Honda_Tengoku, why dont you just turbo the d16?

Originally posted by AzCivic
hey Honda_Tengoku, why dont you just turbo the d16?

first of all. It doesnt make power in the lower RPMs at all. I mean the H22 (a little exagerated, but u know what I mean here) makes more torque at idle than the D16 does at peak. THe D16 wont make any power until boost starts coming on. What is that about 3,000 to 4,500 RPM depending on the turbo for the application I need. Second In order to make the car run 12's the car will have to have some serious internal work and I would have to run like 14+ pounds of boost to do that. U are talking about alot of money here. More than its worth. An all motor car is more reliable than a boosted car just as long as your NA engine doesnt see the neighborhood of 9,000+ RPM. Obviously a highly tuned, high RPM NA car will suffer from harmonic vibrations, and lots of wear, but this wont be the case for me. That and I want to be different. Everyone seems to be going turbo these days. And so when u spank an American muscle car they're excuse will be, "Well u got a turbo!". We dont want to give them any excuse do we? I want them to know they got spanked by an all motor honda. U just get more respect. I plan on running low 12's on drag radials, all motor.

[AzCivic]

actually there are quite a few civic hatches with just greddy kits and no internal engine work running in the 12's.

how much do you think the h22 swap will cost? I once thought of doing it but after i figured it'd be close to 6k$ I sorta lost interest.

Originally posted by AzCivic
actually there are quite a few civic hatches with just greddy kits and no internal engine work running in the 12's.

how much do you think the h22 swap will cost? I once thought of doing it but after i figured it'd be close to 6k$ I sorta lost interest.

Greddy kits with no internals running 12's reliably? Well considering the D series engines can only handle 200 flywheel HP reliably and that would only get u into the 13's then the person that u say runs 12's on stock internals is lucky they havent blown up their engine yet, but they will soon. I know someone who has run a 75 shot of nitrous as well as i/h/e and a light weight flywheel, with stock internals runs 13.09 on drag radials on a 4th gen stripped Civic. This person is also very very meticulous when it comes to engine tuning and with todays nitrous systems they are almost as safe as a turbo. Unfortunately his engines only lasts about a year at the most, depending on how much he uses his nitrous. D series just wont stand up to much over 200 HP on stock internals for very long, thats all there is to it.

Well as far as the price goes well it can range from 4400 to about 6000 depending on many factors. I am prepared to pay that and then some. I will be adding lots of extras like, 16" OZ Superleggras, Quaife LSD, DC sports 4-2-1 header, magnaflow exhaust with cat, cam gears, intake, fuel pump, coilovers, front and rear strut bars, front and rear anti-sway bars, and possibly the Apexi Super VTEC AFC-2, just to name a few mods...

[AzCivic]

well i guess time will tell as to how long they'll last, there's even a stripped Crx with a stock d16 w/ turbo in the high 11's on honda-tech.

More importantly though, do you know how much can be done with the engine you have for the amount of money your gonna spend doing the h22 swap? You can buy a completely assembled/resleeved(1.8ltr) short block w/ aftermarket pistons/rods for about $2500 which is a strong enough to handle 400+ HP.

the ITR shortblock sounds nice, but unfortunately the ITR swap is no cheaper than an H22 in a Civic, actually its more expensive in most cases. Your 2500 dollar price tag sounds nice, but unfortunately u still have to take into account for the tranny, throttle body, intake, ecu, mounts and other things that are needed. The cheapest I have seen an ITR is 5,000 dollars. Even with an ITR engine u should still change your suspension as the ITR engine is also quite a bit heavier than the D series. So after everything is said and done with the resleeved ITR block and a swap u are looking at atleast 8,000 dollars and u still have stock rims, stock suspension, and an engine that only makes 128 ft pounds of torque! Sure it is ready for some serious power but u would have to dump even more money into it then. U could be looking at way over 10,000 dollars (with your resleeve of course). Sure it would be bad a$# but at what cost? Remember I am spending alot of my money on cosmetics and not just go fast parts. I bought my H22a JDM spec Type S engine, tranny, ecu, shifter cables, and resister box all for $1779. The kit from HASPORT, axles, rear tranny bracket, and an ECU adapter is about $1300. So technically I could do this swap for a little over $3000. That is way cheaper than the ITR setup. The only problems with this low figure is obviously the car wouldnt really handle right and I would have to modify the exhaust to bolt it up, as well as modify the factory air box assembly or make a homebuilt short ram setup, not to mention other incidentals that u should really change like the timing belt, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, and things like that. Realistically I could get away with a proper handling Civic, with all the proper incidentals, and things for around 4,000 dollars if I really wanted to. But who wants to be stock? Not me man. I am a tuner, like everyone else in this forum. My car will be customized to the way I want it, and it will be somewhat unique. Not to mention I am not some panzy a$$ m&ron who doesnt know a thing about cars, who has more money than sense, that goes out and buys a brand new 30,000 dollar Lancer EVO and think I am just the sh*t! People like that are lame. I just like to be different and I am not afraid to go with the H22 like some other people are.

[AzCivic]

no, i meant a 1.8ltr D16z6

Originally posted by AzCivic
no, i meant a 1.8ltr D16z6

ohh misunderstanding. Well u still are looking at about 1200 dollars here for the D16Z6, tranny and ecu, then your 2500 dollar resleeve and built shortblock. so you are looking at about 3700 for just a swap and the resleeve. SO everything taken into consideration I would be looking at about 4,000 to swap this engine in for everything. Still about the same price as my H22 is. After that I would turbo it or something to make power, then u are talking about 1500 to 3000 dollars on a turbo kit. Your are still looking at a more expensive engine than an all motor H22 and like I said b4 I still would have stock rims, stock engine, and stock suspension, UGGGG!!!. After that u would have to start adding boost right? Well there are hidden costs like swapping your map sensor over to a 3 bar map sensor. Cuz u cant get above 11 pounds of boost and have your ECU recognize it. That costs about 300 dollars there with rewiring and everything. Not to mention the car would have to go with lots of dyno seesions for tuning at higher boost levels (that gets expensive quick). As I said b4 u still would be stuck with an engine that doesnt make much torque in the lower RPM band. One thing I wanted to ask was about your built shortblock is how the 1.8 liters is attained? Is the crank left stock and resleeved larger with pistons and rods? If it is then that engine will make no more torque NA than the loley ol D16Z6. U see just because it is now a 1.8 doesnt mean it would make torque like the acura 1.8L engines. U see its stroke length that creates torque. Even if the crank is swapped out for a larger stroke one, it still wouldnt make enough torque for me even if it was stroked. U just can compete with naturally aspirated 161 ft pounds of torque stock man, not to mention alot of torque in the lower RPM band which the 1.8/D16Z doesnt have and will never have with a turbo. Obviously your built shortblock would be ready for a turbo and lots of freakin boost but how much are u willing to spend! I think its a bit more expensive than u think. But as I said b4 I really dont want to go turbo right now. Or I could go JRSC if I wanted torque off the line right? Well there is a problem is that the JRSC is not really that good of a supercharger and is very limited in power production and boost. I have seen many cars with a JRSC and I am not impressed. As a matter of fact I have raced one againsted my loly old D16Z hb. He beat me by only two tenths. His h/b ran a 14.7 and I ran a 14.9. No very impressive is it? I might reconsider about building a D16Z engine of they ever come out with a better supercharger (like Endyne's). Everyone seems to be turboing their cars these days. Its all about being different right? Dont get me wrong I might go turbo on another project in the future but right now I dont want to. My current project will never have a turbo on the H22 engine. I wont deal with the added weight that it will have in the front. I might get a wild hair up my a$$ and maybe put nitrous on it someday, but for now it will stay all motor. Its all about respect. all motor cars get more respect, and people just like to talk crap about imports especially Hondas.

what is it, no replacement for displacement!

[AzCivic]

I was under the impression you were replacing the d16z6 with the h22, so you'd have everthing like the head, tranny, etc, so all you would pay is 2500 for the block and then whatever it would cost for the turbo kit/tuning(2-3k$).

its displacement that makes torque, not whether its stroked or bored, also the greater displacement will help spool up a turbo faster.

i know you think that d16 turbo civics dont make much low end power, but they're all having problems with traction off the line as a result of the power they make(and since the cars are FWD) so the problem is going to be even worse I'd think with a 2.2 ltr engine.

its cool if you wanna be different, i just thought i'd give you some stuff to think about.

Originally posted by AzCivic
I was under the impression you were replacing the d16z6 with the h22, so you'd have everthing like the head, tranny, etc, so all you would pay is 2500 for the block and then whatever it would cost for the turbo kit/tuning(2-3k$).

its displacement that makes torque, not whether its stroked or bored, also the greater displacement will help spool up a turbo faster.

i know you think that d16 turbo civics dont make much low end power, but they're all having problems with traction off the line as a result of the power they make(and since the cars are FWD) so the problem is going to be even worse I'd think with a 2.2 ltr engine.

its cool if you wanna be different, i just thought i'd give you some stuff to think about.

Nope I dont have a D16Z6 in my Honda that I am putting the H22 in. I had it in my 92 Civic hb that I just sold. My current project car is a 98 Civic CX hb that I picked up with a blown engine. As far as the traction goes your right to a point. I mean If I was dropping the clutch off the line at 3,000+ RPM in a race, I would have problems with your D16Z6 (1.8liter), and much more with an H22. I want more torque for drivability and speed. Now I would have power off idle. Enough get around town quickly just normal driving without revving the piss out of it and having instant throttle respone (which a turbo'd honda engine doesnt have). And the torque from the H22 will really shine in the higher gears. Like 3rd and 4th gear where the torque will just eat another NA D16z6 (even with the resleeve and extra displacement) or ITR.


No its not displacement that makes torque. Its stroke length and compression. Increasing bore size only really increases HP not torque. Thats why u have engines that are the same size as another manufacturer and one will make more torque than another engine with the same dispacement. Granted there are other factors like cam, head design, and intake manifold and other things, but the basics for this are the same on all engines. Unfortunately problem with increasing stroke length is the RPM capabilities as u have more reciprocating mass to throw around, creating more wear and stress. Specifically speaking more cylinder side wall loading, because the rod to stroke length ratio is smaller. Manufaturers try to make an engine that has the best of both worlds, but manufactures dont always agree on the dimensions of engines now do they.
Your D16Z6/bored to 1.8liter really wont make much more torque than the normal D16z (as long as everything stays the same). The only reason it would possibly make a few more ft pounds would be cuz the cylinder sleeves are new, the rings are new (more compression than an old worn engine), and the rods and piston are must undoubtedly going to be lighter which lessens the reciprocating mass and making the engine more efficient. It will however make substantial gains in HP. I wont presume how much more HP, but it will. As far as increased torque output on a dyno (taking into consideration that the D16Z was in good condition b4 the transformation), I would think somewhere around 5 ft pounds at the most. So given that, at the most the bored D16Z6 would only make 113 ft pounds of torque (theroretically). Still way below the 128 Ft pounds the LS/GSR/ITR, and even farther below the H22 (161 ft pounds of torque).

[AzCivic]

well if your replacing a blown engine then never mind the turbo d16 idea, BUT where did you learn that only the stroke of an engine determines the torque output!?!?!!? All you're doing when you stroke an engine is increasing the displacement of the cylinders(by having the pistons move up and down more), which is the same thing boring out the engine(except the increase in displacement is outward from the center of the piston) either way you have more displacement and more room for air/fuel, meaning more power(torque), which should end up being about 120ftlbs in a d16z6, which is limited by the head design and compression ratio.

Originally posted by AzCivic
well if your replacing a blown engine then never mind the turbo d16 idea, BUT where did you learn that only the stroke of an engine determines the torque output!?!?!!? All you're doing when you stroke an engine is increasing the displacement of the cylinders(by having the pistons move up and down more), which is the same thing boring out the engine(except the increase in displacement is outward from the center of the piston) either way you have more displacement and more room for air/fuel, meaning more power(torque), which should end up being about 120ftlbs in a d16z6, which is limited by the head design and compression ratio.

First of all I am a Jet engine Technician, and I was about half way through my automechanics certification (about 6 years ago before I stopped taking my classes). I do tend to know a few things about this. Think about it for a minute. According to u all 1.8 liter engines should all make the same torque and horsepower output as long as the compression, cam specs, head design, and everything else is generally the same. Unfotunately this couldnt be farther from the truth. Or ask yourself why dont they just make an engine for the street that is all bore, and has a terribly tiny little stroke to it? The reason is the car would not make any torque, it wouldnt be streetable. There is a reson why the dimensions of an engine matter. It does matter about the stroke length and the bore. Its all about engine design and physics. Think of the Formula 1 cars, or the indy cars. Look at their dimensions. They have almost no stroke and large bores, why do u think that is? Look at their displacement and tell me that they make relatively good torque figures compared to their HP, or make equal torque figures equal to that of other race engines (of the same displacement). They dont. There is a huge difference. I have taken so many physics classes that it makes me sick. These are basic engine design physics. I could go into it in more depth with the theories but I think u and I would fall asleep (its a very long theory, and I would have to look it up in my books). I know where u are going with your train of thought. I once thought the same thing. In your mind it makes sense, but unfortunately physics dont always make sense. Trust me on this.

[AzCivic]

Formula 1 engines only have 3ltrs of displacements so they're not gonna make much torque no matter if its from a large bore or a large stroke, but they make good use of the torque they have by spinning the engine well beyond 15k RPMs in order to make the huge HP with their small displacement.

[AzCivic]

but...a longer stroke would have more leverage on the crank than a shorter stroke/larger bore. hmmm...but would this mean more torque or would it mean about the same amount of toque at a lower RPM, hmmm.

[ebpda9]

isn't torque a direct product of the leverage ? also a longer stroke will have higher piston speeds at higher rpms. i know the f20c ( the 00-03 s2k) had higher piston speeds at 9k rpms than a f1 car close to redline (as per american honda motor co. )

[AzCivic]

actually after thinking about it there isnt any more leverage cause with a longer stroke you have to use shorter rods, which would put the rod at a greater angle to the crank, so instead of the piston/rod pushing done on the crank, it would push to the side alot earlier than an engine with a shorter stroke.

yeah a engine with a longer stroke does have a higher piston speed which would create a stronger vacuum when the intake valves open, BUT there wil be less dwell time at BDC/TDC(whereas an engine with a shorter stroke would have more dwell time, or more time for the intake/exhaust to enter/exit. So everything probably evens out.

I must be the only one who knew the differences? Whew and all these experts out here!?...ha,ha.... First of all I don't recommend this swap but on the chance you can't help yourself, these are differences, exterior and phisically. First there is a Blue Valve cover, most obvious (generation hence, 92-95 or 96-00 generations do not differ)not sure when the first "type S" engines were first brought into production , I would not guess prior to 1995. Anyhow the Intake Manifold will not retain the 2 stage plenum, like the US/ JDM spec H22a or H23, it appears similar to B18 Type R. Physical demensions are same. Now It is quit easy to convert a JDM H22a to these specs, simply change the cams and plenum and T/B. Even w/ the Type R series Plants, there is always room for improvement. Now perhaps w/ my limited knowledge of this engine, it may also have attributes similar to the B18C5 as well, such as mild porting from Honda and a tighter valve spring configuration? Static Compression of pistons may also be a tad higher as well, but that is minimal as is the Coatings on the pistons.
Before I'm crusified here w/ the Prelude or H series Junkies, It is my findings and experience ( well qualified, mind you), that the H or F series swaps don't do the lighter inequiped Civic chassis any justice. For a drag application this is great, but for street not a good combo. For example the H series engine alone outweights the B series by a stout appr. 75-90lbs, and the trans another 50 or so lbs... hence 125+ lbs of additional weight hanging over the front of the car. Besides the factory brakes not being up to par for the added tonage, the factory suspension also is ill equiped. Even w/ lowering springs , i.e. Eibach,Intrax,etc... are progressive design and developed to handle the factory engines weight and bias it accordingly. Furthermore the factory equiped toothpick size swaybars are way overloaded when abrupt turns are made.... In conclusion besides the wonderful torque figures the big engines make, without proper well developed suspension, transmisson suitable (lsd equiped) and tires, the car will not get very far just roasting tires ( a billowing smoke cloud never won a race!)! The B series are lighter combos and generate A usable and manageable amount of torque and can generate as much if not more peak HP! Stick with what works. thanx for your time.

[Shaved &/or Laid]

yeah dude, not to be mean, but a H22 in a civic is ***. Its just wrong. Too much sacrifice for a small amount of power. Not worth it at all. Id rather turbo a D than put an H22 in, and im REALLY not a fan of the D series.

[AzCivic]

theres alot of talk about handling and how a h22 civic isnt good for the street, but what kind of racing is most closely related to street racing/driving?? IT AINT AUTOX!!

Originally posted by Importrepairguy
I must be the only one who knew the differences? Whew and all these experts out here!?...ha,ha.... First of all I don't recommend this swap but on the chance you can't help yourself, these are differences, exterior and phisically. First there is a Blue Valve cover, most obvious (generation hence, 92-95 or 96-00 generations do not differ)not sure when the first "type S" engines were first brought into production , I would not guess prior to 1995. Anyhow the Intake Manifold will not retain the 2 stage plenum, like the US/ JDM spec H22a or H23, it appears similar to B18 Type R. Physical demensions are same. Now It is quit easy to convert a JDM H22a to these specs, simply change the cams and plenum and T/B. Even w/ the Type R series Plants, there is always room for improvement. Now perhaps w/ my limited knowledge of this engine, it may also have attributes similar to the B18C5 as well, such as mild porting from Honda and a tighter valve spring configuration? Static Compression of pistons may also be a tad higher as well, but that is minimal as is the Coatings on the pistons.
Before I'm crusified here w/ the Prelude or H series Junkies, It is my findings and experience ( well qualified, mind you), that the H or F series swaps don't do the lighter inequiped Civic chassis any justice. For a drag application this is great, but for street not a good combo. For example the H series engine alone outweights the B series by a stout appr. 75-90lbs, and the trans another 50 or so lbs... hence 125+ lbs of additional weight hanging over the front of the car. Besides the factory brakes not being up to par for the added tonage, the factory suspension also is ill equiped. Even w/ lowering springs , i.e. Eibach,Intrax,etc... are progressive design and developed to handle the factory engines weight and bias it accordingly. Furthermore the factory equiped toothpick size swaybars are way overloaded when abrupt turns are made.... In conclusion besides the wonderful torque figures the big engines make, without proper well developed suspension, transmisson suitable (lsd equiped) and tires, the car will not get very far just roasting tires ( a billowing smoke cloud never won a race!)! The B series are lighter combos and generate A usable and manageable amount of torque and can generate as much if not more peak HP! Stick with what works. thanx for your time.

First of all I have heard its not much more than about 50 to 75 pounds total over a Bseries swap. Not really a whole lot of difference in weight, its where its at is the problem. The people I have talked to have done it first hand. Second of all I will have a develped suspension. Dont worry I will have proper weight reduction and proper spring rates. As far as the sway bars go well they can be upgraded! Even with street tires the H22a1 (200 HP version) still kicks the crap out of the B18C5. U say not usable torque but enough to blow away the the ITR engine on the street. So it must be usable enough then, dont u think? H22 does work, and works well. People are just scared of what they dont know, thats why everyone shys away from it.

Originally posted by AzCivic
Formula 1 engines only have 3ltrs of displacements so they're not gonna make much torque no matter if its from a large bore or a large stroke, but they make good use of the torque they have by spinning the engine well beyond 15k RPMs in order to make the huge HP with their small displacement.

they make almost no torque for what they make in horsepower. Dont u ever see the F1 cars shudder trying to take off from the pits? Dont u ever see them stall taking off from the pits? I mean they die reving the things to 6,000 RPM off the line!!! Think of a diesel engine. Why do u think they have long strokes and tiny pinstons, and they just naturally have lots of torque and not much horsepower. I wonder why that is? Look there is a reason why they are built the way they are. I am really tired of explaining this. No offense.

Originally posted by Shaved &/or Laid
yeah dude, not to be mean, but a H22 in a civic is ***. Its just wrong. Too much sacrifice for a small amount of power. Not worth it at all. Id rather turbo a D than put an H22 in, and im REALLY not a fan of the D series.

I wouldnt call low 13's stock to high 13's for an ITR I wouldnt call a small difference!!

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by Honda_Tengoku
they make almost no torque for what they make in horsepower. Dont u ever see the F1 cars shudder trying to take off from the pits? Dont u ever see them stall taking off from the pits? I mean they die reving the things to 6,000 RPM off the line!!! Think of a diesel engine. Why do u think they have long strokes and tiny pinstons, and they just naturally have lots of torque and not much horsepower. I wonder why that is? Look there is a reason why they are built the way they are. I am really tired of explaining this. No offense.

actually you havent really explained anything, only compared different cars to prove your point.

Originally posted by AzCivic
actually you havent really explained anything, only compared different cars to prove your point.

Here are the major ways that stroking manufactures torque:

1. An increase in cubic inches creates more displacement, and more displacement means more torque.

2. A longer stroke is like a lever acting on the crankshaft; in practical terms it's like using a breaker bar instead of a ratchet handle.

3. More displacement facilitates a higher compression ratio without resorting to outlandish piston domes that disturb flame travel.

4. A longer stroke creates faster piston speed, so the piston can create more of a pressure drop to fill the cylinder more completely at low rpm. 5. It is thought by some that increasing stroke without increasing the length of the connecting rod builds torque because piston-speed dynamics and the rod ratio create more cylinder pressure at maximum rod angularity, at which point the rod has the greatest mechanical advantage over the crank. In a street engine, lengthening the stroke without changing anything else usually favors low-end torque, not high-rpm horsepower.




happy? This is about as simple as I can get it. The actual theories are very complex and I am not getting into it now

u see everyone is too concerned with HP. Its not horsepower that makes your street car fast. Its torque. On the street torque is king. Thats why the H22a (190 HP version) versus the B18C5 (195HP) in the same car the H22 will be from 3-6 tenths faster in the quarter mile. As u can see the HP between these two engines is almost identical. The realy difference is torque output. One makes 161 FT pounds, and the other makes 128. It makes a huge difference as well as more fun too drive around town. Just my opinion. Look I appreciate everyones thoughts and advice. I have already ordered the engine, so the choice is already made. So there is no turning back now. If I am wrong with my beliefs on making a Civic handle with the H22 then I will tell everyone. Granted It wont handle as well as a Civic with a D series with a bad a$$ suspension (thats why I used a D16Z6 in my 92), but I believe it will be close to a turbocharged B series engine in a Civic with proper tuning. If I am wrong then I will admit I was wrong, but everyone must take into accountability that it will be a street car and never an autocross car. never, I know better than that. I am not some idiot punk off the street. I have got about 2 years of SCCA autocross behind me, as well as having been a tuner since I was 17 years old. I did my first hybrid (engine swap) when I was 18 (455/7.2L in a 79 Trans Am) . So I do know a little bit about what I am talking about. Not to mention my classes in physics, and airflow dynamics that I have taken for being a Jet engine technician, as well as I have taken some classes for automechanics (several years ago).

Thanks again for all your opinions and advice people, but my question was about differences of engines between the JDM and the US spec engines.