.:HSTuners::

2ndGenTeg · 05-16-2002, 08:34 PM

The time has come for the upgrade.

I'm keeping my Excelon 911 deck and changer, and my AudioControl Three.1. The rest is going- Two Kicker ZR360s, one ZX460, Kicker Resolution separates front and rear, and my two Kicker Solobaric S12ds.

As my car sits right now, the trunk is useless bacause of the stereo. The back seat is useless because of my 4 pt harnesses. So I figured why not consolidate? I'm gutting the back seat and installing the following:

Kenwood Excelon Dual Mags: Separates in front, Coaxes in rear
Alumapro CAP5
AudioControl ESP-2

Subs and amps are still up in the air. Depends on how much money I decide I want to spend.
Less Money:
Kicker 300.4
Kicker 600.1
4 x JLAudio 12W0
More Money:
Diamond Audio D5 300.4
Diamond Audio D5 1200.1
4 x Diamond Audio CM3 12D2

You may laugh at me for going with the 12W0s, but I guarantee that there is logic behind it. The W0s sound great and pound hard with minimal power pushing them. When running 4 12" woofers, power production becomes an issue. So I want super efficient subs. The less power I have to make, the less power I have to draw. That Kicker 600.1 makes 600 watts and draws a sparse 60 amps- not bad. If I jump up to the 1200 watt Diamond, the draw jumps to 150 amps. Add that to 40 amps for the 4 channel amp to get 100 amps and 190 amps, respectively (as opposed to the 220 amps it is now!!! Headlight fade is the bane of my existence).

If I go with option #1 and send 600 watts to 4 12W0s in a well built enclosure, they'll pound hard and be super clean. So with my 160 amp alternator, Stinger 800 amp deep cycle gel cel battery, and an Alumapro CAP5, my electrical system won't be under stress from powering my stereo.

However, with option #2, 1200 watts to 4 Diamond Audio 12s? Hell yeah. However, it's that pesky current draw issue- I might be okay if I add the CAP5 and lower the draw by 30 amps from what it is now. I might be, but I don't know if that's a chance I'm willing to take.

I may just go ahead and pick up the CAP5, tack it onto my current setup, and see where that leaves me. If that eliminates or close to eliminates my headlight fade, that 30 amps will probably make enough of a difference. But if it's still noticeable, I'll probably go with option #1.

Decisions, decisions...

2000Pimpinex · 05-16-2002, 08:50 PM

I like option #1. I have 3 12WO's and they sound great. Pound hard as hell and they don't cost much. Plus it will be easier on the alternator . Good luck and keep us posted.

black95gs-t · 05-17-2002, 12:52 AM

you can put a cap on each amp. make sure you get the digital readout caps. that way you can run your system without you car even being on with minimal drain to your battery. 2 caps is better than one. on my last system i had 5 caps and 3 amps. caps are an easier quicker solution than a totally new system. plus theya re relatively cheap and will alleviate the dimming head lights.
J

2ndGenTeg · 05-17-2002, 04:18 AM

I know all about caps. I also know most people that use them do so as a cheap fix instead of doing what they should- which is upgrade the alternator and battery.

There's just not a whole lot you can do when you're drawing 220 amps. I could add a second alternator, but that's more trouble than it's worth. I think I'm gonna give the CAP5 a try and see what happens, and stick it between the battery and distribution block, which is the best place for it.

black95gs-t · 05-24-2002, 01:38 PM

a cap is a cheap fix yes. however it is not a bandaid on a broken bone all of the time. sometimes all you need is a cap. with a 220 amp draw, you could get your alternator respun to handle the extra load which happens to be much cheaper than a new alternator and way more economical than adding a second alternator. the only reason you would ever need to a a second alternator is with HIGH amp draws. by high i mean 300+. less than that can be fixed with either respinning your current alternator, or buying a high output aftermarket one. (most of which are overpriced) and a cap or 2 or 3.
J

2ndGenTeg · 05-25-2002, 03:18 AM

I've already got a high output alternator. It's rated at 160 amps, hot.

I'm only opposed to caps when they're used as "a bandaid on a broken bone," as you put it. In my case, when the electrical system has already been upgraded, I think I might give it a try.

I was also considering a second battery and isolator, which may be a better idea in my case. It's not on a stock alternator, but with mine I think it might work out just fine. I didn't want to spend $250 on another battery, but it's gonna be just as much for the CAP5, so why not?

black95gs-t · 05-31-2002, 12:53 AM

what car battery is $250???????????
J

05-17-2002, 12:52 AM	#3
black95gs-t Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Southern Cali Age: 42 Posts: 728	you can put a cap on each amp. make sure you get the digital readout caps. that way you can run your system without you car even being on with minimal drain to your battery. 2 caps is better than one. on my last system i had 5 caps and 3 amps. caps are an easier quicker solution than a totally new system. plus theya re relatively cheap and will alleviate the dimming head lights. J __________________ LOONEY TUNES!!!! "Hearts and minds gents.... And if that doesn't work, two in the heart and one in the mind." "Life sucks.....so drop your pants and let the good times roll!" Mycivicjust8u

05-24-2002, 01:38 PM	#5
black95gs-t Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Southern Cali Age: 42 Posts: 728	a cap is a cheap fix yes. however it is not a bandaid on a broken bone all of the time. sometimes all you need is a cap. with a 220 amp draw, you could get your alternator respun to handle the extra load which happens to be much cheaper than a new alternator and way more economical than adding a second alternator. the only reason you would ever need to a a second alternator is with HIGH amp draws. by high i mean 300+. less than that can be fixed with either respinning your current alternator, or buying a high output aftermarket one. (most of which are overpriced) and a cap or 2 or 3. J __________________ LOONEY TUNES!!!! "Hearts and minds gents.... And if that doesn't work, two in the heart and one in the mind." "Life sucks.....so drop your pants and let the good times roll!" Mycivicjust8u

05-31-2002, 12:53 AM	#7
black95gs-t Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Southern Cali Age: 42 Posts: 728	what car battery is $250??????????? J __________________ LOONEY TUNES!!!! "Hearts and minds gents.... And if that doesn't work, two in the heart and one in the mind." "Life sucks.....so drop your pants and let the good times roll!" Mycivicjust8u

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05-16-2002, 08:34 PM	#1
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	The Upgrade The time has come for the upgrade. I'm keeping my Excelon 911 deck and changer, and my AudioControl Three.1. The rest is going- Two Kicker ZR360s, one ZX460, Kicker Resolution separates front and rear, and my two Kicker Solobaric S12ds. As my car sits right now, the trunk is useless bacause of the stereo. The back seat is useless because of my 4 pt harnesses. So I figured why not consolidate? I'm gutting the back seat and installing the following: Kenwood Excelon Dual Mags: Separates in front, Coaxes in rear Alumapro CAP5 AudioControl ESP-2 Subs and amps are still up in the air. Depends on how much money I decide I want to spend. Less Money: Kicker 300.4 Kicker 600.1 4 x JLAudio 12W0 More Money: Diamond Audio D5 300.4 Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 4 x Diamond Audio CM3 12D2 You may laugh at me for going with the 12W0s, but I guarantee that there is logic behind it. The W0s sound great and pound hard with minimal power pushing them. When running 4 12" woofers, power production becomes an issue. So I want super efficient subs. The less power I have to make, the less power I have to draw. That Kicker 600.1 makes 600 watts and draws a sparse 60 amps- not bad. If I jump up to the 1200 watt Diamond, the draw jumps to 150 amps. Add that to 40 amps for the 4 channel amp to get 100 amps and 190 amps, respectively (as opposed to the 220 amps it is now!!! Headlight fade is the bane of my existence). If I go with option #1 and send 600 watts to 4 12W0s in a well built enclosure, they'll pound hard and be super clean. So with my 160 amp alternator, Stinger 800 amp deep cycle gel cel battery, and an Alumapro CAP5, my electrical system won't be under stress from powering my stereo. However, with option #2, 1200 watts to 4 Diamond Audio 12s? Hell yeah. However, it's that pesky current draw issue- I might be okay if I add the CAP5 and lower the draw by 30 amps from what it is now. I might be, but I don't know if that's a chance I'm willing to take. I may just go ahead and pick up the CAP5, tack it onto my current setup, and see where that leaves me. If that eliminates or close to eliminates my headlight fade, that 30 amps will probably make enough of a difference. But if it's still noticeable, I'll probably go with option #1. Decisions, decisions...

05-16-2002, 08:50 PM	#2
2000Pimpinex Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kentucky Age: 43 Posts: 1,427	I like option #1. I have 3 12WO's and they sound great. Pound hard as hell and they don't cost much. Plus it will be easier on the alternator . Good luck and keep us posted. __________________ 2008 Mustang GT 1998 Hatchback SOLD 1992 Hatchback w/ JDM H22A SOLD 1985 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8 351W w/ 33X12.5X15

05-17-2002, 04:18 AM	#4
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	I know all about caps. I also know most people that use them do so as a cheap fix instead of doing what they should- which is upgrade the alternator and battery. There's just not a whole lot you can do when you're drawing 220 amps. I could add a second alternator, but that's more trouble than it's worth. I think I'm gonna give the CAP5 a try and see what happens, and stick it between the battery and distribution block, which is the best place for it.

05-25-2002, 03:18 AM	#6
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	I've already got a high output alternator. It's rated at 160 amps, hot. I'm only opposed to caps when they're used as "a bandaid on a broken bone," as you put it. In my case, when the electrical system has already been upgraded, I think I might give it a try. I was also considering a second battery and isolator, which may be a better idea in my case. It's not on a stock alternator, but with mine I think it might work out just fine. I didn't want to spend $250 on another battery, but it's gonna be just as much for the CAP5, so why not?