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Old 01-30-2002, 10:43 PM   #1
black_civic_kid
 
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problems after installing intake

I just installed a short ram intake on my 95 civic dx. Now I know you boys dont like people calling it the check engine light, but i dont know what the hell else to call it. So i just finished resetting my ECU after installing the intake and the stupid light wont turn off. Is this normal ? Anyone have any advice as to what i might check ?
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Old 01-30-2002, 10:59 PM   #2
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Did you plug the sensor back into the Intake tube?
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Old 01-30-2002, 11:07 PM   #3
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there is no place on the intake tube for the sensor and there was no sensor that i could see hooked to the old intake ...

its a 95 civic.
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Old 01-30-2002, 11:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by black_civic_kid
there is no place on the intake tube for the sensor and there was no sensor that i could see hooked to the old intake ...

its a 95 civic.

oh ok.. just checking... how did you reset your CEL?
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Old 01-30-2002, 11:59 PM   #5
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you mean reset the ecu ?

I removed the ecu fuse and removed the negative terminal of the battery ...
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Old 01-31-2002, 12:02 AM   #6
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i also should mention that the engine is sputtering and cutting out right before it hits 4000 RPM ... this is no good.
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Old 01-31-2002, 12:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by black_civic_kid
you mean reset the ecu ?

I removed the ecu fuse and removed the negative terminal of the battery ...

Just so you know, you only have to do one or the other. Did you remove them for at least 5 minutes? After you re-started the car, did you do it without touching the gas?
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Old 01-31-2002, 12:47 AM   #8
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yep, i sure did ... i let it run idle for about 10 minutes...
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Old 01-31-2002, 07:34 AM   #9
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Have you checked to see what the DTC is?

Read this step by step if you need help figuring out how to do that. Also let me know if its done the same way with the 5th Gen civics.

http://www.hondastyle.com/forums/sho...&threadid=2300
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:36 AM   #10
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the dtc is 10
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:54 AM   #11
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Thats the error for Intake Air Temperature sensor Open or short in IAT sensor circuit, defective IAT sensor...

but you said you plugged everything back in nice and tight that you needed to huh..
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:59 AM   #12
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yeah, but i did unplug the IAT sensor when installing the intake cause it was in the way and made the screw to loosen the old intake hose hard to get at. I know i have plugged it back in though. I dont see how anything could have gotten damaged when i just unplugged it and plugged it back in ?
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Old 01-31-2002, 11:26 AM   #13
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you didnt remove the whole sensor tho right..Just unplugged it..
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Old 01-31-2002, 12:14 PM   #14
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RIght, I just unplugged it. Not removed the whole thing. I cant see how the thing would get damaged like that all of a sudden ?
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Old 01-31-2002, 01:56 PM   #15
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ok, give this a try
1. reset your ecm by pulling out the 7.5a fuse and the the 15a fuse for 15 sec. (ign. must be off)
2. turn ign. key on, check the code again. if it's 10, turn the ign. off.
3. now you have to measure the resistance bet. 2 terminals on the IAT sensor (i think it's the grn/blu and red/yel wires). you need a multimeter. there shld be around up to 4.0k. if not, you need a new sensor..if there is, it's ok
4. turn ign. ON and check the voltage bet. red/yel wire and ground and grn/blue wire..there shld be around 5v for both.

check and make sure your wires are not loose (eg. you might have pulled it hard when you removed the connector from the sensor, so make sure it has a good continuity w/ the sensor).. goodluck!
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Old 01-31-2002, 08:23 PM   #16
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Ok heres what I think..


Sometimes when peeps install intakes, the check engine light will come on.. No bid deal.. If you're sure you didnt mess up anything, you then reset the ECU.


I think you went wrong at that step. You didnt reset it properly.


Thats whats causing the freaky engine behavior.


Do this

1-When the engine is cool, disconnect negative. Leave it for 5-10 minutes..
2- Reconnect it .
3- Off all accessories.
4- Start the car, and let it warm up until the idle drops to lowest point. around 600rpm (not 6000).. If you are NOT living in very cold weather, I suggest you let it run for around 10 minutes.. Just to make sure the idle settles.

5- Then off the car.

6- You're ECU was properly reset, so you can start the car.. Everything should be fine.


Good luck!
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Old 01-31-2002, 08:45 PM   #17
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I think he means 600 RPMs not 6000...
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Old 01-31-2002, 09:48 PM   #18
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well we dont even know what's up coz the kid aint replying..
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Old 01-31-2002, 10:33 PM   #19
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JP, not to contradict what you're saying, but I've always been told to do it when the engine is already warm. Are there any advantages/disadvantages of doing that?

Other than that, that's exactly what I do...
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Old 02-01-2002, 09:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Racing Rice
I think he means 600 RPMs not 6000...

LOL .. you'Re correct..

THe funny thing is that, first I typed 600, but it looked wrong so I added a 0 and it looked much better!


Imagine a civic that idles at 6k!!
this is funny as hell..
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Old 02-01-2002, 10:00 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94_AcCoRd_EX
JP, not to contradict what you're saying, but I've always been told to do it when the engine is already warm. Are there any advantages/disadvantages of doing that?

Other than that, that's exactly what I do...


The way that I described is the fail-safe method.. Cant really go wrong.


In certain cases, because of certain variables, if the engine is already warmed up, the readings may be off.

One time, this guys was idling below 400rpm.. Needless to say, I never saw an engine stutter that much. It was like the engine was constantly going to stop.. But never did..
Like when you're in 4th gear at 10 mph.
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Old 02-01-2002, 10:10 AM   #22
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hey, i tryed resetting the ECU again last night and then left it off all night after letting it idle for about 10 minutes. This morning went back out to turn it back on and what do i see ...

CEL light is back on AGAIN !!! Still engine code 10 !!!

This is really pissin me off. So i think what I am gonna do is install the old one back in and see if the light goes out...

I'll report back to let you guys know what happens.
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Old 02-01-2002, 10:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by black_civic_kid
hey, i tryed resetting the ECU again last night and then left it off all night after letting it idle for about 10 minutes. This morning went back out to turn it back on and what do i see ...

CEL light is back on AGAIN !!! Still engine code 10 !!!

This is really pissin me off. So i think what I am gonna do is install the old one back in and see if the light goes out...

I'll report back to let you guys know what happens.


humm strange.. If you're resetting properly and the light isnt going off.. It might mean that you broke something..

Take a look in the area where you worked (in engine bay).. Does everything look like its supposed to?
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Old 02-01-2002, 10:33 AM   #24
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At this point, it has to be the sensor IMO. You've tried everything else, and that's the code its spittin' at you, right?
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Old 02-04-2002, 10:15 AM   #25
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Hey, I reinstalled the intake and put a new fuse in for the ECU fuse and reset the ECU again and it seems to have taken the light off. But im not in the clear yet. Every now and then when the car is idling it will stall and then the CEL will come on again. All I have to do is to turn the car off and back on and it is good to go again. But This is kinda an annoyance to have to do this at numerous intersections !! Any ideas boys ?
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Old 02-04-2002, 11:18 AM   #26
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so how's the IAT sensor???
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Old 02-04-2002, 01:31 PM   #27
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are you 100% sure you reset the ECU properly?
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