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Old 07-07-2002, 02:51 PM   #1
turbocivic4
 
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Civic with vafc fuel setup

Hi Im runing a d16z6 with a greddy turbo w/ ported head etc.
Im currently runing my setup with the blue box and am ready to ditch it for higher boost and more fuel w/ stock bottom!
I ordererd my vafc , walbro intank 255 pump, and 440 rc injectors, im boostin 7 now and will be boostin 9.
My question is I no im can run the stock fuel regulator, but i already have a weopon r adjustable fuel regulator, can I use the weopon r to regulate the pressure, is it not the same thing as the stock?>?
Currently making 157.8 hp with 154.6 torque, which is really low for my setup so ill turn it up and let u all no the outccome!!]


P.S
The Blue Box sux ass and will only hold u back
Id have ditched it from the begginin had i realized
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Old 07-07-2002, 08:56 PM   #2
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Quote:
My question is I no im can run the stock fuel regulator, but i already have a weopon r adjustable fuel regulator, can I use the weopon r to regulate the......
i'm having a hard time trying to understand this question. i'll try my best tho. a stock fuel pressure regulator is not adjustable. it only regulates through a vaccum line coming from the intake manifold. the weaponR pressure regulator is a fully adjustable diaphragm type valve, which means that it can be adjusted to your demand on specific REVs.

yes the blue box sux. i just disconnected mine yesterday and i'm now running the 12:1 vortech FMU and check valves combo boosting at 7 psi untuned. i still have stock injectors and ignition.

there a better way to combat this blue box issue now. your AFC will be able to alter the signal going to the map, therefore will avoid CEL. i just installed my vortech FMU and will be getting it tuned with the B&M command flo and VAFC. this VAFC rig is an awesome idea that works. i know it'll be the way to go, but i must admit that i'll give the FMU a try first and get familiar with the function of the VAFC in relation to turbocharged civic.
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Old 07-07-2002, 08:57 PM   #3
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BTW, this post should go to the turbo forum.......
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Old 07-08-2002, 12:00 AM   #4
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ok

Yeah a friend of mine at the shop , the guys who will tune my car told me to get the vortech 8:1 fmu. But I didnt order it because i think the 440 will be more then enough fuel the 8:1 will only drown me out from what ive been told!
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Old 07-08-2002, 02:51 AM   #5
Ex-Tdo4
 
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Don't ditch the Blue Box

Ok, i'm in the same predicament. I'm currently boosting 7lbs in the SOHC with Greddy Turbo. I will still use the blue box and boost 10 lbs with these mods. Using RC 370's, 225lph in-tank fuel pump, and timing retard of 2 degrees. If I'm too rich at idle which i may be using the 370's then i'll lean it out with a VAFC. I really don't want to use the VAFC because i don't see a need for it UNLESS I'm rich at idle and I'm drowning out my motor. The reasoning behind keeping the blue box is for the same reason it's there now; fuel enrichment under boost. BUt what's different? What's different is that im using larger injectors and a more fuel flowing pump to enrich fuel for 10 lbs of boost rather than 7lbs which I'm at now. The blue box does 2 simple things, it keeps the CEL from coming on by not letting your MAP sensor see boost, and it enriches fuel when it detects boost. The blue box will still send the same signal whether using stock 240's or larger 370's, the only difference being that 370's will put out more fuel compared to the stock 240's. Most ppl think that the blue box is only good up to 8lbs of boost, but that's wrong, it's good up to 8lbs of boost on FACTORY STOCK INJECTORS. I'm currently boosting 7lbs with advanced timing with no detonation. I raced a guy a couple of weeks ago that said he used to have an SI 95 Hatchback boosting 12lbs with the Greddy Kit and stock d16z6 bottom end. So it can be done, but that is living on the boundaries and threshold of your motor. Do what you guys want, but I'm opting to keep my blue box and my other mods listed above to boost 10lbs safely. I think a VAFC is the best way to go when boosting anywhere UP TO 1 bar. There's nothing wrong with it as long as your car has a good air fuel ratio with proper tunning on a wide band 02.
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Old 07-08-2002, 03:18 AM   #6
turbocivic4
 
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ok

Well i read ur reply and well lets say i had 270 injectors didnt put it on now im doing things diferently.
U want to keep the blue box, I got to say that the blue box is worth sh!t. Ive got extensive mods on my car and have tuned it but the blue box holds it back plenty. In other words its giving incorect amounts of fuel to my engine, maybe to rich. In my upper rpms my powerband tends to drop, y , obvisouly because of incorrect air/fuel mixture.
Ive already tried to run 270 cc with the blue box, just doesnt work
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Old 07-08-2002, 05:24 PM   #7
xbird
 
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good info here

check these out guys:
http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137901

NO FMU, no missing link nor check values
just fuel pump and injectors

so many tried it and loved it so much
but the max is 10 psi

i have told thermal that already, i am not sure if he has tried it out yet
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Old 07-08-2002, 09:15 PM   #8
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i want to try the FMU and check valve rig for now. i may still fu*& with the map signal tho
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Old 07-08-2002, 09:19 PM   #9
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Re: ok

Quote:
Originally posted by turbocivic4
Yeah a friend of mine at the shop , the guys who will tune my car told me to get the vortech 8:1 fmu. But I didnt order it because i think the 440 will be more then enough fuel the 8:1 will only drown me out from what ive been told!
FMU has nothing to do with your injectors. FMU is a boost dependant device to compensate. as the boost starts rising, the FMU will decrease the flow of fuel going tback to the fuel tank to avoid fuel starvation. in other words, the only time that the injector size matters is if you're boosting in high digits.......
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Old 07-08-2002, 11:15 PM   #10
Ex-Tdo4
 
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turbocivic4

well, i've only dynoed my car with the bluebox at 5.5lbs of boost. and i was running really rich, it didn't go any leaner towards the end of the RPM band. WEll, i will still choose to stick with the bluebox unless it gives me problems like you're having with it. BUt i was saying that i was gonna use 270's i said 370's which is a big difference. Yes 370's will yield me really rich mixture at mid RPM range but a VAFC should cure that problem. Good luch at whatever you do, let us know what works for 10lbs boost, thanks
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Old 07-09-2002, 12:35 AM   #11
turbocivic4
 
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heh

Im sorry did i get u right??? I dont think u can run the blue box with the vafc right?? Y would u do that , y not throw it away and just use the vafc?
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Old 07-10-2002, 01:12 AM   #12
Ex-Tdo4
 
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sure you can, just disconnect all the wires from the blue box that has anything to do with fuel, and keep the wires that sends signal to map sensor and boost recognition, basically just keep all the wires that keep you from gettting a CEL. So you can boost however much you want with no cell using the factory map sensor.
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Old 07-10-2002, 05:53 PM   #13
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u can run it together. mine is set up that way right now.....
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Old 07-21-2002, 03:03 AM   #14
MrCLoWnY
 
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Hey thermal can you use the Vortech FMU with the Blue box or do you ahve to disconnect the blue box??? and if so how do you disconnect the darn blue box.. Its been so long since i put it on that i forgot....
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Old 07-21-2002, 03:06 AM   #15
xbird
 
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how?? what do u mean how clowny?
just disconnect all the wires

there are only like 1 wire that is CUT into the ECU wire

go to www.turbocivic.net and check out the wires


how's ur car clowny?
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Old 07-21-2002, 02:51 PM   #16
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daym cLownY is back! yeah, i disconnected my blue box yesterday. i left everything tapped except the map signal which is a red/green wire. i reconnected the map and all i did with the blue box is unplug the harness. i want to keep my blue box installed as a back up, just in case the FMU starts acting up. if u installed the blue box with everything it came with, and in accordance with the GReddy recommended way, then there should be a quick disconnect feature on the map wire itself (red/green on the ECU harness). yours is on the 16P harness while mine is on the 31P. here's what u need to do with yours:
1) locate the 16P harness on your ECU, which should be the farthest right harness.
2) locate the red/green wire which is "split" (not tapped) with the the white and green wire of the blue box.
3) reconnect the red/green wire together
4) unplug the harness of the blue box

whalah! you're done!

OT: my car got broken into again yesterday evening. this is twice in in less than 2 months! this time the fu$%ers took my gauges!
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Old 07-21-2002, 03:06 PM   #17
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DaMn... THose lil Punks... I feel your pain Thermal.. I got my system jacked couple of months ago....... My system costed me $4000. I hate it when peoples do that....... My car is going to be on the road soon... Still not running yet.. Hopefully soon..... Good to hear from you Thermal..... ANd thanks for the tip.........
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