Traction....

Theres been a post before about a 10 second civic hatchback si, and then just recently ther was posted a post about that blue civic hatch that runs a high 11 1/4 mile....how do these cars keep traction on the street?

[nonovurbizniz]

slicks, preloaded suspension, torsion bars... traction bars... in some cases preloaded wheelie bars... limited slip differentials.

basically you try to make your tires as sticky as possible and you try to force the front suspension down like there is added weight holding down the front end.

or if your smart you buy a rwd or awd car to start with.

on the street slicks are illegal (there are street legal slicks and LOTS of people run slicks on the street (generally just for a race) but it's not what you want if it EVER rains where you are).

search google with ANY of the terms I used above.

Originally posted by nonovurbizniz
slicks, preloaded suspension, torsion bars... traction bars... in some cases preloaded wheelie bars... limited slip differentials.

basically you try to make your tires as sticky as possible and you try to force the front suspension down like there is added weight holding down the front end.

or if your smart you buy a rwd or awd car to start with.

on the street slicks are illegal (there are street legal slicks and LOTS of people run slicks on the street (generally just for a race) but it's not what you want if it EVER rains where you are).

search google with ANY of the terms I used above.

Thanks....i just want a high hp civ without having to buy tires every 6 months....maybe thats impossible, but i want to try

Would i have to do all of those things in order to have good traction? or could i just do, say: the Preloaded suspension, and traction bars, and an LSD?

Can i have preloaded suspension while keeping my Apex'i N1 dampers? or do i have to buy a seperate shock and buy a special spring for the preloading...?

Also, it seems as tho Traction bars would make for a bumpier ride...am i correct?


Can I do the preloaded suspension only in the front? or do i have to do it in the rear aswell?

im pretty sure traction is the only thing that civic aint got

[AzCivic]

sticky tires, LSD, Z10 or Lakewood traction bars, rear struts set to the stiffest setting.

[nonovurbizniz]

you're going to go through tires regardless....

I had a 140hp (at most) sentra and it went through tires quicker than that...

how often do you go through a set now? mine don't last over a year and I'm REAL easy on them for the most part.

and those are tires I bought specifically for their wear rating...

the stickier and faster a tire is the quicker it's gunna wear out.

you can keep your suspension... a tration bar (if you had searched you'd know this by now) just mounts to where the stock tow hooks do then it ties into the lca in the front. (I believe)...

It just stops any hop from occuring in the suspension..

lsd.. you can go aftermarket or sell you swaps tranny and get a type R with the stock lsd... it's the Y80 I believe. I'd probobly recomend a queef since you're the big money spender. they're much better than the stock type r one but they're like 1000 bucks.

well worth it though.

traction will actually make you chew through tires faster than w/o... w/o traction mods your wheels will hop which isn't half as bad as them being spun smoothly.. the lsd will ensure EVEN wear.. so instead of doing 1 wheel burnouts you can do 2 wheel burnouts...

plus the added load of the tracion bars will increase wear on the tires during normal driving much less hard driving.

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by nonovurbizniz

traction will actually make you chew through tires faster than w/o... w/o traction mods your wheels will hop which isn't half as bad as them being spun smoothly

wheel hop puts alot of wear on the tranny, i'd much rather spin tires then hop.

having all your change fly out the ash tray while your hopping across an intersection sucks.

[nonovurbizniz]

Ya... try having it full of butts and ashes...

Wheel hop is super-lame. and definately not good for about anything besides the tires.. even they can get out-of-round if it's excessive and often.

Definately want to consider your tires more of a wear item then your tranny...

OT.. but I see you got a ACT lightened FW... did it improve over the stock lightened one?

[AzCivic]

oh better for the tires you mean. that makes sense.


I still got to install it, I hope it will since its about 1.5lbs lighter and i'm sure more of the weight was removed from the outer part of the flywheel as opposed to the inner part on the stock lightened one.

I cant wait to install all that stuff in the "Next step" part of my sig, I might be getting a Zex nitrous kit as well, i just gotta see how much all this tranny crap is going to add up to.

But the traction bar would make the ride ALOT bumpier, no?

especially if your suspension is on the stiffest setting also....and i think my suspension is stiff

the only traction related thing i could find on the guys list of mods (i scanned) was....Competition Engeneering traction system


wtf is that? lol

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by OPAKRACING
But the traction bar would make the ride ALOT bumpier, no?

especially if your suspension is on the stiffest setting also....and i think my suspension is stiff

no

Originally posted by AzCivic
no

How would it not? if it doesn't allow wheel bump, then it would make it bumpier...well atleast logically it would...i don't get it

[Racing Rice]

Originally posted by AzCivic
no

How do you figure.. Anything that stiffens the chasis will affect ride quality to a point.

[AzCivic]

Originally posted by Racing Rice
How do you figure.. Anything that stiffens the chasis will affect ride quality to a point.

its not going to make it "alot bumpier" or any bumpier. here is some info on them(z10 radius arms) since some people dont know how to do a search on their own.

http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=460
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/z10.html

competetion eng's traction bars are only for the drag strip i believe so i'd stay away from those.

[nonovurbizniz]

it doesn't make it bumpier because it braces... not stiffens... your springs and struts effect the stiffness of the chassis' connection to the susp. radius arms of traction bars either preload your susp... so it's like having the pros of extra weight up front w/o the cons... Or they prevent forward-back movement in supsension pieces which were designed not to move that way but do so do to the extra power.