What's Up People!

Hey everyone,

Are we rocking n rolling yet?

Late,
Rocket

[94_AcCoRd_EX]

Whatsup Rocket, welcome to HS

[ebpda9]

ohh yeah the welcoming comitee. almost forgot about this

WELCOME TO HONDASTYLE

what u drive, mods, pics ?

Welcome aboard dude!

I'd like to know the same as above

I drive a 68 VW Squareback wid dual webers but my I'm working on a full race car here are the details

All Motor Drag Only CRX,

B16 Head (custom vavle seat and port/chamber work by me)
HondaSaver Springs and Ti Retainers (.500 lift capable)
TypeR Intake Manifold
HondSaver Custom Vtec Cam 284 deg. 12mm Lift (Like Jun 3,)
Cam Gears Skunk2
Endyn 33.5mm Intake valves (nitrided stainless steel) w/ back cut
Endyn 28.5mm Exhaust valves (nitrided stainless steel) w/ back cut
RC 370 Peak & Hold Injectors
B18A Sleeved to 84.5mm by Golden Eagle Mfg.
GSR waterpump (runs slower 23 teeth instead of LS 19 teeth)
GSR Crank (micropolished)
Eagle/Endyn H-Beam Rods for GSR
Endyn 13+ to 1 Rollerwave Pistons (these are bad ass pistons)
Wiseco file fit piston rings
ACL main bearings
Honda rod bearings
HondaSaver modified spark plugs (Champion) (.032 gap)
NGK sparkplug wires
Header? Still deciding on which one to go with.
Sounds cool?
Action Clucth - Specially made for me - kevlar 3 puck with ultra strong heat treated steel hub and single heavy duty pressure plate.

[ebpda9]

dang you have a shit load of work done there. And all by yourself i wish i were like you, or at least have toe money for the parts.

Props to you man.

It's taken a long time to get to this point and going fast all motor is the most expensive route. Nitrous or turbo is much more price effective but not as elegant.


Actually most of this stuff costs less than you guys think. That's why I started HondaSaver.

[Racing Rice]

Impressive list... Welcome to HS..

Let me know if you guys need stuff or tech help. I like helping cool people.

Late,

welcome to HS rocket....

I am going to have to visit Jersey, Ohio etc and hang with you people in real time.

[2ndGenTeg]

I'm just curious about a couple of things:

1. Why would you run a B18C crank in a B18A block? I'm all about the B18C crank over the B18A/B (better rod ratio due to shorter stroke, better lubrication, etc.), but why not just run it in a B18C block? You won't see any displacement advantage since you're using the B18C crank, so there's really no point in using a B18A block. You would save yourself the trouble of machining the block, as well as avoid the problem of:

2. The B18C block has a taller deck height than the B18A. How are you planning to get a B18C spec crank and B18C spec rods in a B18A block? You could weld on deck height, but it seems it would be much easier to just use a B18C.

As for the header, go with something with longer primaries and a 2.5" collector. The JDM 4-1, Spoon, Mugen, SMSP 4-2-1, or HyTech 4-2-1 would all work fine. I would also get whatever you choose heat coated (i.e. jet hot).

I got the crank cheap coz it came from a GSR block that was in a car wreck and the motor mount ripped a chunk out of the block.

I chose the GSR crank because of many reasons including

1) GSR cranks are much beefer than LS Cranks it has 17.5 mm wide rod journals instead of 19.5mm on a LS. This makes the GSR crank arms 2mm thicker on than LS's. Crank rigidity is key to running past 10,000 rpm. Also the tolerance on GSR cranks and parts in general are much tighter. Crank rigidity also helps ring seal coz the rods/pistons run straighter.

2) I was planning on using the stock GSR rods but Rick at Endyn talked me out of that.

3)Slightly better rod ratio allows for less radical porting.

4)I went B18A because it's readily available and the deck height doesn't matter too much coz I plan to run the pistons out of the hole anyways (spot faced combustion chambers to run the pistons into the head)

Sounds like a lot of work but it's more fun when it's over done.

Late,

Originally posted by Rocket
I am going to have to visit Jersey, Ohio etc and hang with you people in real time.

thanks a lot rocket....

Not yet. I am in the process of building it.

When I do run it I am going to see if it is necessary to run past 10K. Ideally 9,000 rpm should be plenty. Shifts at 10,000 rpm is pretty hard on the tranny let alone the motor.

The cams I am using should allow for torque production in the 9,000 rpm range which will make for a screamer but will provide good power 6500 rpm and up.

Having as rigid components as possible helps keep everything tidy at the extreme rpm. That's my reasoning behind the GSR crank.

DAMN Rocket!!! you liked a pimped out Y0da CrX jedi mastah. lolz i've been waiting for someone like you to come around mang, WElcome to da board , i got a 1989 CrX si pr0ject car....it's still inearly development.. It's not for the strip tho only street, i'm looking at a b16 with turbo application.... My main comp is LS1 camar0's grrrr and sum mustangs here and there oh well, Good luck on your setup and one day we'll face off. hahahaha

The real master is T.0.0. at www.TheOldOne.com (real name Larry Widmer).

I just talked to Larry recently about configuring the valves and valve seats for my motor. Talking to him was like getting a chance to talk to Bruce Lee. That's how much honor and respect I give the man.

Let me know if you need help with your CRX. I am getting rid of my interior so if you need some interior stuff let me know.

Late.

My favorite sayings are

5.0 Slows

and Todays's Special ...... SMOKED CHEVY.