ok, to round out the main possibilities...

this is what ive come to pass over my few weeks of research...this is for 6th Gen civics: 1996 - 1998

H22A - wonderful to go in straight line, deadly with turbo, but when it comes to a daily driver, decrepid riding lawn mower could handle better cornering (i.e. bad weight displacement & suspension problems)...also the only engine listed here you may have swap troubles with, for you need a mounting kit...but body/engine bay modifications shouldnt be neccessary

B18C-R(*B18C5 for you USDM know-it-alls)roblem is finding one under a mosest man's income budget...yet still as deadly if not deadlier than an H22A going in a straight line, it's lighter and smaller, so the suspension/handling wont suffer as much

B18A/B18B/B18C - so so, but compared to the above.....WEAK!!, they drop down about 30-40hp in stock ratings, and cost anywhere up to an H22A, if not more, but certainly a step up from my D16 non-vtec

then last but certainly not least...

B16A - i believe this is the civic sir if not i stand corrected....lil bit weaker than all the rest but also a lot less costly...do this if under extreme tight budget and still addicted to the speed...


**my full suggestion, go for the H@@A for racing in a straight line, otherwise, if you want to go all out go for the teg type R B18C-R (also called B18C5 i believe [USDM code])

b18a/b is much less.........the money u save from this is well worth it for the extra mods you can buy...my opinion

There is also a civic type-r that is a very nice motor, little less torque then b18c5 but very deadly(very high revs).

Also from my experience B18C1 is a very nice motor, especialy with a turbo. Its out of an teg LS, has most torque than the rest of the b18 series

i think i figured it all out, i might go with the H22A for many reasons:

1) H22 from right prelude year & model can be rated up to 220 hp stock and costs anywhere between $4000 including professional installation and all needed parts to $2300 right from anyone's inventory if im not mistaken, (most ive seen rated from a B18C-R is 210 hp and its price is upwards around $5300)

2) H22 is about 3 grand less in the price...which leads to #3

3) with the saved money from getting an H22 instead of a B18C-R i could use the xtra dough on a really good totally redone suspension (at least in front if not rear too) and be able to handle the sear weight displacement & torque that comes with the H22, making it an acceptable car as an either daily driver, or a straight line fuel hungry animal

4) the added torque from the H22 compared to the B18C-R would really shoot me off like a rocket....but there is one downfall...if you can really even call it that...

5) the H22 revs at aprox. 7200rpm's, the B18C-R can redline at 8900 rpm's...though i dunno if the revs really do matter in actual performance...someone will have to fill me in on that one...

6) also, the H22 when totally redone would be able to habdle a good sized turbo giving it that extra needed umph accross the line


oh, and the civic type-r engine (i cant remember the exact engine code, so i wont even try guessing) is rated somewhere around 185 hp stock, and ive seen the price go anywhere from $4700 to $5000...so i think its really not worth it unless youjust love them civic type-r's or somethin

[slowEJ6]

Originally posted by Quist
Also from my experience B18C1 is a very nice motor, especialy with a turbo. Its out of an teg LS, has most torque than the rest of the b18 series

the B18C1 is out of the integra GSR. B18B is out of the LS/GS.

H22A is perfectly fine as a daily driver....however the header sits very low so scraping can be a problem if you like that low stance on 15"/16" wheels.
all you need is some stiffer spring rates to compensate for the extra weight, better shocks are always nice. and a thick rear swaybar. front wouldnt hurt either.

[Wren57]

I've also been looking at starting a 2nd project car (along side the Highlander)... Im thinking a 5th Gen Hatchback... My best choice for engine is H22A fully built for turbo and nitrous... plan on spending tonsodough over the life of the car, which is hopefully a long time... I was wondering... people keep talking about the header being low and scraping... How much of a problem is this SERIOUSLY??? Not just from what youve heard... no hearsay... but cases you have experienced or seen... any help would be appreciated... PS- My AC is windows down, so I dont mind having no AC as I dont use it in my SUV anyways

[slowEJ6]

the header scraping...........is a problem from what ive seen. 98 EK w/ H22A 2.5" drop & 14" wheels - scraped the header here and there - had to drive VERY slow up inclines and down steep hills w/ curbs or what not and speed bumps.

[Wren57]

I guess a better question would be... does the header scraping really matter all that much? I mean sure if it is bad enough it might put a small hole in the header... but if it just scrapes and doesnt dent or bend it any is there any downside other than for show quality? I wouldnt think so... I guess my overall question is how bad does the header scrape and how does it effect the header mechanically?

[Wren57]

Another thought Ive been having is putting the B20 down into the lil hatch... any header clearance issues here? I know the B20 is awesome turboed and would lay down some nice torque... just going over engine ideas before I start the project... Ive always heard overplanning is better than having a shitty car-engine combo

[slowEJ6]

no problems with the CRV engine. of course CRVTEC can be highly unreliable if it isnt built well. but just a plain ol B20 with a turbo is better - imo - than a B18B w/ turbo.
im a fan of .2L

there are always ways to getting around the scrapage of the headers arent there?....

1 would possibly be to customly re-route the exhaust more off to the side of the engine or something along the likes of that (im just comming out with ideas outta my a$$) but then that brings up the questions of more restriction? price? actual possibility of it being done?

2 customly bend the pipe a little higher/closer to the engine so its not as far from the ground as normally?

what about exhausts with custom turbo manifolds, the downpipe could be manipulated a little bit for more clearance couldnt it?

**by all words "customly" i mean keeping the pipe with same diameter & round, not creases or ghetto nasty nasty stuff like that**

:crazy(again all of these straight out of my crack but at least im still thinking like a live one)

my car is on a set of 16's with the same wheel diameter as stock wheels, im thinking of dropping my civic no more than 2 - 2.2 inches all around...would this be too much of a drop for an H22?

it is true that theres a stock H22** with approx. 220hp out there right? cuz i heard about it and im looking for that force of life baby :-P

ive also read up on a newly discovered optoin for transplant....

if im correct (that is, my sources)...

there is another H22A that could be of some use....

the H22A type-S (JDM) from what i have read can push approx. 220+ hp...and its price doesnt seem that far off from a normal H22A, but then theres the import fees and all that...but hell, im looking for a transplant less than $5000 with as much HP as possible (the $5000 im just speaking for the engine and transplant associates themselves, not including suspention mods, and installation) and so far, from what ive seen, it may be possible to get this beast in my car for just about $5000, sweet /-\ss

check it out..., just search online for various websites, even some sites in the sticky on the hybrid board has some good sites, i gotta go to bed, i get too worked up over this car s|-|it sometimes :-P

[slowEJ6]

your in FL.......
www.jdmclub.com
they are the shizzle, seriously. im thinking of driving to their shop and letting them do my install while im on vacation in miami

[ChrisCantSkate]

well, the h22a1 is the usdm obd1 h22 engine putting 190hp 158 lb/ft out. the h22a4 is the usdm obd2 h22 putting out 195-200hp and same tq. the h22a is the jdm h22 putting 200hp and 161lb/ft most of the time the cheapest engine is the h22a and its the best. it has a 10.6:1 copmpression where as the usdm have 10.0:1 and the redline on the jdm is 7600rpms where mine is only 7400. the crowoer valve spring and retainers bring your rev limit uptp a sape 9000 or so rpms ive been told and with the right cam shafts (crower sage 2) you will use the power uptill that point almost (peak being around 8500rpms) also on the h22 the vtec point is lower so you have more usable power lower in the powerband than a gsr or a b16 has. as far as scraping, my downpipe is scraped up so i think it is just how the engine sits that scrapes it not the fact its in a different car.you should seriorly look into this swap because it is the "big block" of 4 cylenders, having thicker cylender walls. a prelude with i/h/e and some other minor mods is 14.5ish and a 75 shot is mid 13's imagine what that would do to a civic! the h22 engine is by far the cheapest being able to pick one up from the right importer for around 1800 with tranny. ive seen mounts go for 400-500 in all honesty if i had a civic, i would look for anything but a h22.

[Wren57]

4thgenlude... question... you said "if I had a civic, i would look for anything but a h22"... and yet you praised the h22 earlier in the post... just curious as to if you meant u "wouldnt" look for anything but an h22... thanks

[ChrisCantSkate]

Originally posted by highlander
4thgenlude... question... you said "if I had a civic, i would look for anything but a h22"... and yet you praised the h22 earlier in the post... just curious as to if you meant u "wouldnt" look for anything but an h22... thanks

lol, thanx man i ment wouldnt! im currently helping a friend look at h22's and b18s for his 97 coupe. i want him to do a h22, but he's kinda conserned about ac and power steering.