92-95 civic rear disc conversion.....

alright.. ive been doing a little research.. so far ive found the trailing arms on a 95 civic are the same for drum and disc.. so if this is true, why not scrap the drum assy. and replace it with a disc setup.. no hassle with the swapping of trailing arms.. so in theory i could go buy rotors, calipers, e-brake lines, and possibly hubs and hoses and have an si rear setup.. if anyone has any info or can find info to verify that the trailing arms are the same that would be awesome.. ive tried asking honda but out honda store is filled with lazy assholes, but the local j-yard says theyre the same.. thanks for any help

[pdiggitydogg]

they are all the same arms (all eg/ek/dc)
you can just swap the hubs over but you need a special driver to insert onto the back of the hub and an impact to remove it.

Physically, and in terms of finding the parts it is a whole lot easier to just buy the arms that already have rear disc (either off a sedan ex, si, or 94+ integra) and swap them on.

There's also a how-to thread in the DIY area of hst that has this info and how to actually do it.

cool.. ill check it out.. thanks

[Shaved &/or Laid]

bah i wish i had that kinda money

[pdiggitydogg]

If you do it right - buying new parts and crap...its a very costly mod IMHO
You buy the arms - $few hundred
Realize that the bushings are crap-ola - $115 for mugen (the only thing you should get)
Realize that you cant press them in yourself because you dont have a press - $70/hr for labor and of course it takes 2hrs (for no reason
Get it home and think "now I need cables that fit" - another hundred for cables that fit
Next you see that you need a prop valve IF youre lucky enough to have an ex civic. If youre one of the majority who owns anything other than that you need an MC and a BB as well
Oh, now youre ready to put them on...nope, time to get new rotors and pads too because its a new mod..cant put the old crappy ones on!
Ok, finally youre ready...take a day off to do it, it falls on your foot and breaks a toe...hospital time
Now, you cant go for your runs/play ball/SHIFT GEARS so you cant have fun...
All for slightly better braking and bragging rights.
(Notice I didnt include trips to the hardware store for bolts that you need and paint if you decided that you wanted to do that....I did and it was another $15 in paint and a wire wheel...)

But I'll be damned if I didnt do it and damned if I wouldnt do it again w/ another civic

[nonovurbizniz]

Mine went easy enough but it's true about the extra costs...

I had to buy pads and rotors... I got the trailing arms booster/mc and prop valve all at once for 250-300 bucks....

although after installing everything I found out the master cyl. was no good... so I had to buy an aftermarket one for 100 bucks...

Oh and if you change the master/booster.... HAVE FUN with the 4 booster bolts... my back still hurts a year later.

yeah.. i looked into getting all new parts.. it was 140 for calipers, another 60 for rotors, pads are 40, cables and lines about 100, and then another 80 for the master.. and thats with my discount from pep boys.. hadnt priced the bushings, but looking at them, they definately need replaced.. i think ill put my motor back in and enjoy the car for a month or so before i have all the parts for the swap.. where can i find the mugen bushings?

[pdiggitydogg]

kingmotorsports.com

when you order them they will be the part number for the crx(ef civic), thats fine. The arms are the same -> bushing holes are the same.
(52385-xe5-s0n0 is what you get even if you order #-xe9-#. #-xe9-# is discontinued but it doesnt matter because the circumference of all ef/eg/ek/dc are 10" whereas da integra's are 10.5".............trust me...)

Youre just better off buying a used set of arms from ebay or getting the full setup at a junk yard. If you get em from a yard you can pull the mc,bb,prop,cables,lines,arms,calipers yourself for probably less than everything purchased online. Just remember that changing the entire arm is a whole lot easier than changing hubs.

[Shaved &/or Laid]

so if i did it id just buy a whole conversion. 600-800 $ from what i THINK i saw. for rusty rotors lol

[pdiggitydogg]

my total so far is $550...maybe a little more than that
(but I bought all new parts and shelled out for good rotors,pads,fluid so take that into context)
I may still purchase ss lines so tack on another $100...but Im not sure if I want to do that (weighing in the risk of them breaking and losing brakes)

so would you say that $150 is good for the rear swap from an integra? lines, ta's, calipers, rotors, cables, and any misc crap..

[pdiggitydogg]

if the calipers work, arms are straight, bushings are decent, calbe seals arent cracked (leaving actual calbes open/naked) then yes, that is a good deal
Just make sure theyre from a 94+ integra so when you do need to change the bushings, you dont run into problems if they end up being 90-93 'teg arms.
You will still need a brake booster, master cyl., and prop valve though.

[ShagginJet]

^^Damn P Dogg, that's some siat you went through. So why are the SS lines likely to break??

[pdiggitydogg]

its just the ends that are likely to break.
A lot of manufacturers use plastic ends/connectors which become the weakest part of the line. Depending on your use of them and the weather they'll break easily. If they break...well...your lines arent connected anymore and your only stopping power is downshifting and locking the rears w/ the cable.

From my research, Earl's lines have zero plastic parts and the new Goodrich lines are supposed to have them (but I havent seen it yet.
You could of course make your own though...if youre good enough I mean...brakes are nothing to mess w/ if you have any doubts.