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2ndGenTeg · 05-16-2002, 08:34 PM

The time has come for the upgrade.

I'm keeping my Excelon 911 deck and changer, and my AudioControl Three.1. The rest is going- Two Kicker ZR360s, one ZX460, Kicker Resolution separates front and rear, and my two Kicker Solobaric S12ds.

As my car sits right now, the trunk is useless bacause of the stereo. The back seat is useless because of my 4 pt harnesses. So I figured why not consolidate? I'm gutting the back seat and installing the following:

Kenwood Excelon Dual Mags: Separates in front, Coaxes in rear
Alumapro CAP5
AudioControl ESP-2

Subs and amps are still up in the air. Depends on how much money I decide I want to spend.
Less Money:
Kicker 300.4
Kicker 600.1
4 x JLAudio 12W0
More Money:
Diamond Audio D5 300.4
Diamond Audio D5 1200.1
4 x Diamond Audio CM3 12D2

You may laugh at me for going with the 12W0s, but I guarantee that there is logic behind it. The W0s sound great and pound hard with minimal power pushing them. When running 4 12" woofers, power production becomes an issue. So I want super efficient subs. The less power I have to make, the less power I have to draw. That Kicker 600.1 makes 600 watts and draws a sparse 60 amps- not bad. If I jump up to the 1200 watt Diamond, the draw jumps to 150 amps. Add that to 40 amps for the 4 channel amp to get 100 amps and 190 amps, respectively (as opposed to the 220 amps it is now!!! Headlight fade is the bane of my existence).

If I go with option #1 and send 600 watts to 4 12W0s in a well built enclosure, they'll pound hard and be super clean. So with my 160 amp alternator, Stinger 800 amp deep cycle gel cel battery, and an Alumapro CAP5, my electrical system won't be under stress from powering my stereo.

However, with option #2, 1200 watts to 4 Diamond Audio 12s? Hell yeah. However, it's that pesky current draw issue- I might be okay if I add the CAP5 and lower the draw by 30 amps from what it is now. I might be, but I don't know if that's a chance I'm willing to take.

I may just go ahead and pick up the CAP5, tack it onto my current setup, and see where that leaves me. If that eliminates or close to eliminates my headlight fade, that 30 amps will probably make enough of a difference. But if it's still noticeable, I'll probably go with option #1.

Decisions, decisions...

05-16-2002, 08:34 PM	#1
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	The Upgrade The time has come for the upgrade. I'm keeping my Excelon 911 deck and changer, and my AudioControl Three.1. The rest is going- Two Kicker ZR360s, one ZX460, Kicker Resolution separates front and rear, and my two Kicker Solobaric S12ds. As my car sits right now, the trunk is useless bacause of the stereo. The back seat is useless because of my 4 pt harnesses. So I figured why not consolidate? I'm gutting the back seat and installing the following: Kenwood Excelon Dual Mags: Separates in front, Coaxes in rear Alumapro CAP5 AudioControl ESP-2 Subs and amps are still up in the air. Depends on how much money I decide I want to spend. Less Money: Kicker 300.4 Kicker 600.1 4 x JLAudio 12W0 More Money: Diamond Audio D5 300.4 Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 4 x Diamond Audio CM3 12D2 You may laugh at me for going with the 12W0s, but I guarantee that there is logic behind it. The W0s sound great and pound hard with minimal power pushing them. When running 4 12" woofers, power production becomes an issue. So I want super efficient subs. The less power I have to make, the less power I have to draw. That Kicker 600.1 makes 600 watts and draws a sparse 60 amps- not bad. If I jump up to the 1200 watt Diamond, the draw jumps to 150 amps. Add that to 40 amps for the 4 channel amp to get 100 amps and 190 amps, respectively (as opposed to the 220 amps it is now!!! Headlight fade is the bane of my existence). If I go with option #1 and send 600 watts to 4 12W0s in a well built enclosure, they'll pound hard and be super clean. So with my 160 amp alternator, Stinger 800 amp deep cycle gel cel battery, and an Alumapro CAP5, my electrical system won't be under stress from powering my stereo. However, with option #2, 1200 watts to 4 Diamond Audio 12s? Hell yeah. However, it's that pesky current draw issue- I might be okay if I add the CAP5 and lower the draw by 30 amps from what it is now. I might be, but I don't know if that's a chance I'm willing to take. I may just go ahead and pick up the CAP5, tack it onto my current setup, and see where that leaves me. If that eliminates or close to eliminates my headlight fade, that 30 amps will probably make enough of a difference. But if it's still noticeable, I'll probably go with option #1. Decisions, decisions...