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well i had a suspicion that the D17's were coil on plug and you obviously confirmed that. So in that case, is your check engine light on? Does it come on and go out or what? I'd rule out the cat problem for the sheer fact that you say it runs fine when it's cold outside, right? If the cat were clogged it, the ambient air temp shouldn't affect it. I'd also rule out the fuel filter for the same reason, it wouldn't be affected by the temp. The fuel pump also shoudn't be either, but when fuel is warm it can do funny things. The hot key thing may or not be related, but lets think it's not. The thing that gets me is that this problem is dependant on temperature. Describe to me exactly what it does when it's warm out. Something that would help more would be hooking it up to a professional scan tool to look at the PID (parameter Identification data) which is a reading of all the sensors on the vehicle. Unfortunatley i highly doubt that you own one, as they are thousands of dollars. But that would allow me to see what each sensor is doing, and you could compare it to how the sensors are reacting when it's cold. The other thing you mentioned was the cam and crank sensors. When you read the code, was it continuous (present) DTC, or was it a pending (about to happen), or history (already been fixed, but still stored), code? If it's a continuious problem, your check engine light should be illuminated. If it's a pending code, that means that something failed a test once, but you need to fail twice for most things to illiminate the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp), so it stores it in a pending area. If it's a history code, that means it once was a pending or continuous code, but the problem has been fixed, and the computer will hold the code in memory for 40 drive cycles (usually). I know that's a lot of info, but the more you tell me, the more i can help.
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