Rims: Just about anything is acceptable. Stay away from Eagles and Primes (no offense to anyone owning them), and you should be fine. A "respectable" rim/tire package will usually run at least $700-800. Any wheel with a 4x113.5 bolt pattern and an offset of no lower than +42 to +45 will work just fine. An offset any lower than that, and you'll probably have to roll the fenders if you lower the car. As for diameter, going any larger than 17" will cause problems. Keep in mind the larger the rim, the more it will slow you down, but the tighter it will handle. Most autocrossers go with a 15" rim, and anything larger than 17" will hurt streetability and cause clearance problems. Most people I know go with a 16" rim- right in the middle.
Lowering kit: Most of the time, it isn't a kit. The best is a true coilover setup (NOT adjustable springs, there is a BIG difference), but expect to pay $1000+. You're probably looking to go the spring/strut route. When lowering the car, look to purchase three things: the springs, struts, and camber correction kit. It's possible to lower just using springs, but you'll go through struts and tires in a heartbeat. The lower you go, the harder it will be on your struts, and the quicker you'll go through tires without a camber kit. Generally, you shouldn't go lower than 2.5" before you get into clearance problems. Personally, my favorites are the Eibach, Sprint, and Tanabe springs; Koni and KYB struts (NOT Tokico- had them and hated them); and the Ingalls and Sprint camber kits.
Tail lights: tail lights is tail lights. Just remember clears are illegal, and you WILL be pulled over for them.
Exhaust: With what you're looking to do, though, an exhaust won't help a whole lot, powerwise. Honestly, I'd just weld on a muffler. If you're set on a cat-back exhaust, though, you get what you pay for, in terms of build quality. From what it sounds like you want, I'd look at the GReddy Street Performer (SP), and the A'pexi N1 with a silencer. Stay away from Tanabe- they have a bottleneck about 3" long less than 2.25" in diameter.
Tint: Take it to a pro, unless you've done it before or want bubbles.
Decals: Cake. Most vinyl decals go on very easily. Just make sure you have a squeegee handy to get the bubbles out. I'd also make sure you do it on a warm day- the vinyl sticks better and the bubbles come out easier.
Body kits: There are a million companies out there making body kits these days, which is good because WW sucks ass. Personally, my favorites are made by Vis (
www.visracing.com). For more pictures of body kits than you can shake a stick at, go to
www.importezine.com.
One other thing you should consider is an intake- best bang for the buck you can get. Best of the best (IMO) is the AEM cold air. Cold air intakes make more power than short rams, but for the most part, an intake is an intake.
Welcome to the incredibly addictive, bottomless abyss that is Honda tuning.