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this is the SECOND time im writing this.... **annoyed the website ate it the first time**
you just did a swap.. into a fairly old beaten car... there are some key points you need to observe
the first is how nitrous kits work
no matter what kit you get.. etra air is added, thus allowing you to add more fuel and make more power...
for this application you are looking at very basic single nozzle dry and wet kits..
for the MOST part this is the differance.. a wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake. IF you go this route the ONLY draw back is KEEP AN EYE on those lines and fittings.. if something ever comes lose on nitrous engagement you will sray gas all over your hot engine which in case you did not know is bad..
a dry kit JUST sprays nitrous and boosts fuel pressure through some OTHER means.. an NOS kit using a second nitrous solonoid as a gateway to a T one end of the T goes to the solonoid that sprays it into the intake, the other goes to a regulator that bleeds pressure to your fuel pressure reg. the increase in pressure raises fuel pressure..compensating for the nitrous. NO MATTER WHAT THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY THERE IS ONE HINT I WILL GIVE... PLUMB THE INTAKE FAR AWAY FROM THE THROTTLE BODY... like 12 inches to allow for the most even nitrous distribution possible.. all the kits listed are fine for modest increases.. but if they have not been changed yet i STRONGLY suggest a new filter AND a new fuel pump... if ANY of your fueling fails on nitrous the engine will get VERY lean and VERY hot.. this is bad...
just to voice how confident i am in the NOS kit.. it COMES with a fuel pressure safety switch.. what this does is shut off nitrous if the fuel PSI is not high enough.. i threw mine away.. lol and the kit has provided 2 solid years of reliable service..
i STRONGLY suggest a heater.. and a nitrous pressure gauge..
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