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2ndGenTeg · 12-05-2001, 12:58 PM

Here's what I've decided:

No Turbo.

My engine turned 100,000 miles old last week (still not bad for a 1992!). Honda engines ares some of the most reliable out there, but I still don't trust my engine to take an 8 psi beating on a daily basis. I considered just turboing it, then saving money for a new(er) B18B. Then when I do eventually blow my engine, drop the the B18B in. But that's more hassle and more money than I want to deal with.

No H22.

I know, I know, it's a badass engine. I've got a friend with a JDM H22 in his EG, and we have video of him outrunning a C5 Vette. The problem: I'm a pussy. I'd have to give up my A/C and power steering. It's a daily driver, and these are not "luxuries" I'm willing to do without. As for the problems with handling, mounting, etc- don't believe any of it. The problem actually comes from the engine's higher center of gravity- not the direction in which it leans or anything else. While this does increase understeer (which all of our F/F vehicles have in abundance anyway), all you have to do to remedy the problem is invest in a beefier sway bar. $250, less understeer than stock. The mount is absolutely painless, as well.

No B18C.

Simply not enough power. To get this engine to run a good time, you have to invest thousands after you purchase it. I figure to get this engine to run the time I want, I'll spend at least $10K, including the puchase price of the engine. Thanks, but no thanks.

So what have I decided? Brace yourselves.

JDM B16A1. Bore the cylinders to 86 mm with Golden Eagle sleeves. B17A crank new from Acura. 12.0:1 CR pistons (remember, I'm at over 5,000 feet in elevation) from Endyn. Rods from Crower.

Where the hell did I come up with this? Check this out.
1. The price. My entire engine costs less than $5,000.
2. Look at what I get: sleeved cylinders, forged rods and pistons, and a brand new crank- basically a rebuilt engine with awesome internals. Reliability, as well as rev capabilities.
3. Good rod ratio and oversquare bore/stroke: This setup will take 11K easy, 12K with a little crank work. Again, reliability and rev capable.
4. 1891 cc's of diplacement. Take that, LS/VTEC fans.
5. VTEC bottom end: Already has the better lubrication and oil squirters that you have to tap an LS/VTEC for. Once again, reliability and rev happy.
6. Mine's DA chassis, B18A1, YS1 tranny (even though the tranny code only tells you what chassis it originally came from). The B16A1 is also a cable tranny. Could it get any easier?

I figure without doing any of the head work, this engine will hit mid-high 13s at sea level, probably high 14s-low 15s here, and around 180-190 whp at sea level, 150-160 whp here @ 9,000 RPM.

Put $3,000 into the head (P/P from Portflow, Toda Spec B or Jun Stage 2 cams, valvetrain), I can see high 11s- low 12s, 215+ whp, all motor.

The best part? Because of the good rod ratio, oversquare geometry, and strong internals, this engine would be extremely reliable- more reliable any STOCK Honda engine (now that's reliability!).

Any questions?

12-05-2001, 12:58 PM	#32
2ndGenTeg 4th Gear Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Boulder, CO Age: 43 Posts: 830	Here's what I've decided: No Turbo. My engine turned 100,000 miles old last week (still not bad for a 1992!). Honda engines ares some of the most reliable out there, but I still don't trust my engine to take an 8 psi beating on a daily basis. I considered just turboing it, then saving money for a new(er) B18B. Then when I do eventually blow my engine, drop the the B18B in. But that's more hassle and more money than I want to deal with. No H22. I know, I know, it's a badass engine. I've got a friend with a JDM H22 in his EG, and we have video of him outrunning a C5 Vette. The problem: I'm a pussy. I'd have to give up my A/C and power steering. It's a daily driver, and these are not "luxuries" I'm willing to do without. As for the problems with handling, mounting, etc- don't believe any of it. The problem actually comes from the engine's higher center of gravity- not the direction in which it leans or anything else. While this does increase understeer (which all of our F/F vehicles have in abundance anyway), all you have to do to remedy the problem is invest in a beefier sway bar. $250, less understeer than stock. The mount is absolutely painless, as well. No B18C. Simply not enough power. To get this engine to run a good time, you have to invest thousands after you purchase it. I figure to get this engine to run the time I want, I'll spend at least $10K, including the puchase price of the engine. Thanks, but no thanks. So what have I decided? Brace yourselves. JDM B16A1. Bore the cylinders to 86 mm with Golden Eagle sleeves. B17A crank new from Acura. 12.0:1 CR pistons (remember, I'm at over 5,000 feet in elevation) from Endyn. Rods from Crower. Where the hell did I come up with this? Check this out. 1. The price. My entire engine costs less than $5,000. 2. Look at what I get: sleeved cylinders, forged rods and pistons, and a brand new crank- basically a rebuilt engine with awesome internals. Reliability, as well as rev capabilities. 3. Good rod ratio and oversquare bore/stroke: This setup will take 11K easy, 12K with a little crank work. Again, reliability and rev capable. 4. 1891 cc's of diplacement. Take that, LS/VTEC fans. 5. VTEC bottom end: Already has the better lubrication and oil squirters that you have to tap an LS/VTEC for. Once again, reliability and rev happy. 6. Mine's DA chassis, B18A1, YS1 tranny (even though the tranny code only tells you what chassis it originally came from). The B16A1 is also a cable tranny. Could it get any easier? I figure without doing any of the head work, this engine will hit mid-high 13s at sea level, probably high 14s-low 15s here, and around 180-190 whp at sea level, 150-160 whp here @ 9,000 RPM. Put $3,000 into the head (P/P from Portflow, Toda Spec B or Jun Stage 2 cams, valvetrain), I can see high 11s- low 12s, 215+ whp, all motor. The best part? Because of the good rod ratio, oversquare geometry, and strong internals, this engine would be extremely reliable- more reliable any STOCK Honda engine (now that's reliability!). Any questions?