WTF are all of you telling this kid?????
A. b18c5 and b18c1 ARE VERY different... nameley the superior oil pump bottom end girdle 1 stage intake instead of 2 in GSR (b18c1) better crank etc etc etc... the c5 is FAR SUPERIOR to the c1...
B. Boost is MORE than attainable on a c5 with or without lowering the compression... (it's called tuning)
C. Port and polish is NOT EVEN APPROACHING A REQUIRED MOD.
D. If ANY of you knew what you where talking about with saving money you'd've suggested a ls/vtec turbo or a straight ls turbo.. build it up and it could cost THOUSANDS less than a simple type R swap.
E. A g350 is a skyline like my civic is a SiR.
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Originally Posted by highlander
just installation costs more with the b18c1
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F. Why does c1 install cost more than c5????
For the origonal poster:
You obviously do not know enough to start modding your car this seriously without wasting your money and ending up with something other than what you hoped for.
be it a c1 or c5,6,7, etc... you can get what ever your looking for...
Popular honda montra says "DO NOT TURBO A C5" this is partly due to the high compression of the engine but also due to the fact that turbo's are inherently dangerous on a car not designed for it... stock turbo cars have TONS of things that NA blocks regardless of quality of build just don't have...
Forged pistons
Piston coolers (most vtec's have these)
NON ALUMINUM HEADS (turbo's run MUCH hotter than na cars the heads can COMPLETELY warp.)
MUCH THICKER cylinder walls
Oil coolers
PROPER FUEL INJECTOR SIZE AND FUEL MAPS.
the list goes on and on and on... basically put if your going to turbo a block.. go with a setup LOTS of people have done and haven't had any problems with otherwise you risk blowing EXPENSIVE parts REPEATEDLY trying to hunt down the problem.
Turboing a car is a HUGE venture. It
can be done with junkyard parts on high mile engines but that's not usually the case... and even then YOU WILL BLOW UP YOUR MOTOR EVENTUALLY. GUARANTEED.
If you have money POURING out of your ears (like highlander's fam. jfwy) then go for the c5 or the 6 or 7... but don't expect to spend 10k and have something in the end... chances are you'll be like 20k in before you have anything APPROACHING reliable especially if your getting the work done for you.
If you want to be realistic and have a car that runs
most of the time... get a b18b and work that or a b16a2... but now your back into big bucks for the block and parts...
The benifit to doing a ls or even a d16 turbo build is that the engines and parts are damn close to free (for stock stuff)... so that way if you blow your motor you can replace it for cheap.
If you really want the type R motor go for it... but it's gunna be a money pit...
Last thing... You are aware that beyond the swap/install cost for the block a decent turbo set up will cost WELL over 3k? and a GOOD one can cost upwards of 10k (just for turbo/fuel/engine management components).