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notepad in one window, and your browser with local page in another. thats the only way to make truly efficient pages.
I've heard that the latest version of dreamweaver is pretty good, but still I wouldnt use it.
just take the time to sit down and design your site from the ground up. use global style sheets and things are real easy, then your updates are a breeze if you use comments correctly.
btw, I got this book long ago and it has been the best book when it comes to writing and designing webpages: Web Pages That Suck; learn good design by looking at bad design. This is the best book ever, you'll learn a lot.
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