Thinking about competing, need help!
 

Well, since I most likely won't be selling my car and won't be having a speed demon (haha), I am thinking of going into audio competitions. I hooked up with some really nice buds from work who know their shit about sound and could get me hook ups and all and hlep me install.

This is what I currently have.

A Kenwood Deck
KDC-MP8017 CD/MP3 Receiver

Receiver to be exact.
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/product/p...e&productId=694

Now I want to add some subs, so I'm thinking about 2 x 12" Alpine Type R's. Got lots of props for those subs.

Now what amp should I run with those to power them enough.

Also what kinda db levels do you think I'd be hitting with those in my car? I'm actually hoping to win something, or maybe come close to. Any advice would help.

Heres my tip to you


SAVE YOUR MONEY AND GET IT PROFESSIONALLY DONE


holy christ man, i went to a local Car show held by a small car club in the area thinking my custom stereo was going to be one of the nicer there


Jesus look what money can buy...

I was up against this guy (he was in The Fast and the Furious and on the cover of MAX Power)

http://www.mospeed.com/jc2.htm

And yes, that is a monitor in his trunk lid

This guy didnt even WIN BEST I.C.E. some girl did that had her car towed in by a Chevy Avalanche..

My point is.. even small car shows draw the big guys attention, to get your stereo noticed your gonna have to get it done RIGHT... or do it yourself like i did.. i got extra points cause mine is hand made by mwoi.... anyway... good luck... save your money for now :) :cool:

juvenile, like the other dude said.. it isnt that easy to win in competitions.. ANd it takes much more than just having the right equipement.


In any case, what type fo competitions will you be entering in?

I want to be entering db drags. Basically the person that wins has the highest db rating.

The reason I want to enter is because that dude that helped me setup my current system (borrowing his 2 x 10" Clarion sub box) told me that he was really close to winning in a competition with a jenson 500w amp, running a kenwood old deck and the box I'm using for now.

Even though his is a jeep and is more open, I'm gonna be running ~800-1000w amp and 2 x 12" Type R's (maybe, unless otherwise suggested)
so I think I can hit pretty high levels.

His hit ~140db. So I'm hoping ~145 with that setup.

Go with a JL W7 then, i hear they can read 154 with a single 12

your subs will be in the trunk.. thats an added difficulty. if your rear seats fold down, it will help, but still a hatch/truck (open space thing) is better..

Around here, a guy running 2 Type Rs in a pretty big ported box (sounds crappy, but is the loudest configuration for the R), barely got any attention.. And this was in a Civic hatch, running off a MRV-1507 (900w rms)..


but maybe around where you live, that setup may get you somewhere..

I'd suggest 1.15-1.2 cu ft, sealed box. and an amp that could push out 400 clean watts per channel. But, if ever your in a competition, listen carefully, caus too much stress and those subs will say goodbye.



Type Rs are mostly SQ subs.. And wont get you far in any type of DB event.


PS, i like those subs.. IMO, they are a very nice balance of SPL/SQ.

What about what he suggested. I think I can get on W7 12" then. It's somewhat in my budget.

btw what's SPL/SQ?

you know W7's run 800 bucks right? for one...


Then if you want alot of power a good amp will run you close to that but you will destroy all as far as DBs :)

yeah but I can get stuff a bit cheaper.
Friend works for best buy and gets 25% off meaning no tax + 10% off cover price (in Ontario taxes are 15%)

Then go for it, either go with a 12W7 or a 13W7, they say the 13W7 is a 15 in a smaller package and will put any other 15 to shame as far as sound quality and power... and it will take 1000watts constant... mmmmmmmmmm

If only i were rich, id re do my system with 2 13W7's powered by 2 memphis 1k's, then of course theres the problem of knocking my windows out but that can be fixed...

lol
yeah with that kinda setup, will I have to re-enforce anythign though?

With 1 13W7, you should be ok with a shitload of dynomat and some time tighening bolts... with 2 in a trunk your good... 2 in my hatch would blow glass ill bet if cranked during a db drag... i dont even wanna think about that yuck:pukey

SPL = sound pressure level (how loud it is)
this is the one you are going for.. But, the Alpine Type R, doesnt fit this application that well.


SQ = sound quality (no explanation needed:))

dude at 120db (and at often lower intensities), their is already major rattling..

no what I'm asking is if any windows will shatter or bolts will unscrew? :crazy: :D

haha, your windows should be ok.. but your bolts will get unscrewed.. depending how often you bump hard..

the 154 that they got out of the 12w7 was A) not in a car and B) not set up for daily usage. it really doesn't matter what the company says about their stuff, the info they give you is rarely useful with any real system. the 154 was done in a lab when they finally finished the sub and were getting the final figures. it was done on a burp(which might i add you do not want to do unless your car is set up for it. burping is an easy way to totally fry up your entire electrical system if you don't know what you are doing.) realistically, in a hatchback with a single 12w7 firing up, with 2 phoenix gold titanium 600.2's you might get about 145 depending you how you set the whole thing up. more than this is obviously possible, but that is a pretty attainable goal. i know i have gotten on here and preached about the w7's, but physics still apply. there was a very good reason that i had 4 PPI PC 21400.2's on 2 W7's. they are power hungry and without the proper setup and power they are just like any other overpriced speaker. and a sealed box in an SPL competition is a joke for the most part. especially with less than 3 drivers. it takes a much bigger amp to make a sealed box as loud as a ported box. when you are talking about SPL, using a sealed box would be like spending $8000 on engine mods, and still have the stock intake exhaust and fuel delivery. sealed in SQ on the otherhand, depending on the driver can be a good idea. plus it usually sounds better. but sealed boxes were not designed for SPL.
J

I currently have 2 12" Alpine Type R DVC's in a single side ported box and they rattle my car like crazy. They're powered by a Pheonix Gold Amo. My 6x9's on my rear deck behind my rear seats always move, my rear view mirror,even tight as hell, and useless cuz it rattles so bad. my spoiler is very shaky (even with Brown Bread) my truck rattles like crazy (with brown bread). ya know how you take off those plastic panels in your trunk to get at your rear lights? well anyways, they unscrewed a couple screws for those and for my brake light, but inside the car is nice and rattle free, except with certain bass tests...whoa man, makes my heart thud and on certain songs i gotta puke almost (like Country Grammer by Nelly, Midwest Swing by St. Lunatics)

ok but do you know how much db those things reach? just out of curiosity?