N/A Motor Build UP
 

I currently have a 2K GSR with the following mods.

AEM Cold Air Intake
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator Best
AEM Fuel Filter
AEM Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
AEM Power Pulleys Future Plans
Type R Valve Cover
DC Sports 4-1 Header
Tokico 5-Way Struts
Weapon R Coilovers
Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar
72mm JG Throttle Body
JG Edelbrock Victor Xmanifold
APEXI VAFC
Thermal 2 3/8 Cat Back Exhaust
High Flow Cat

My Gsr is showing signs of blowby on does very poorly on the compression tests. I have decided that I am going to build my motor and do up a racte head, but I don't really know what direction that I want to go in. I know that I want to go N/A. As for what internals thats what I am undecied on. Any Ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Jun or Toda cams. Eagle rods and ImportBuilders pistons. Actually, just check out ImportBuilders.com. Jeff is the man, and he'll build you a better engine than anyone on the face of the planet.

i'm sorry but I have to say that I was not impressed talking to Jeff one time over at his shop. He may have a great knowledge of honda's(which was questionable when talking to him about a d16), but he knows crap about other cars, he refuses to work on nissans because they are too complicated, in his own words.

find out why you are losing compression and what steps would need to be taken to correct the problem. a new cam profile as mentioned would be the next step. i would suggest a very aggresive profile if you are looking for a race setup, just know that your car will not be a daily driver anymore and the idle will suck. what type of speed do you want? 1/4 mile or track.

I'm sorry- I thought we were talking about Hondas here. Anyways...

The beauty of VTEC is that you CAN go with a very aggressive profile and keep a strong low end and steady idle. Toda Spec B and Jun Stage 2 cams use a non-VTEC lobe very close to stock. A good friend of mine ran Jun Stage 2s- idle was great, and he ran a 14.2 at 5500 feet above sea level- high 12s at sea level.

how did u test the engine for compression ? sometimes a poor compression reading can be missadjusted valves that do not close properly too, not just worn piston rings. how many miles do u have on the car ? when i did my compression check at 140k miles the first time (incorrectly) the readings were a lot under the rebuild limit, and the second time when i did it correctly the engine had like new compression.

build up
 

contact erick's racing... 10.06 naturally aspirated