Compatible IACV
 

For those that care to know, the obd2 iacv for integra ls/gsr and d16y8, though different part numbers are 100% compatible.

Today, my y8's iacv died and I wasnt about to pay a single dime for that thing, so I thought that the LS's IACV would fit...it does! It works! No more CEL!
:D :stickman:

Just sharing

good.

and the obd1 (TEC) iacv DOES NOT FIT and is not interchangable, which is what I heard, firgured this out when we did our 2/3 wire iacv/manual swaps, I actualty have a brand new $135 iacv sitting in my garage as a back up

where the fuck is this thing located, i've heard all about it and i don't even know what it does

on b,d series should be on the back on the air plenum, next to the tps. on the 90-93 accord it is next to the throttle rotor. kinda acts as a throttle buterfly when driving.

Number 9
Its adjusts the idle when cold, through thermo sensors, a piston/butterfly combo, and coolant temps


Basically, its a giant pain in the ass

good shit. I didnt know that. If I did, I would've kept the one from my Y8....... It is always nice to have an extra one. I know that my ITR one is about to go bad.....

the itr one will probably work too, since its the same as the b16a2's

how do you know when it goes bad? Fucked up idle i assume?

When it gets dirty, your idle will bounce around, when its cool outside, from 500-1500. At that point, you just unbolt it from the IM and shoot it with some carb cleaner for awhile, to rinse it out, and just bolt it back on. This is generally the cause of fluctuating idle issues, if its not the FITV (older cars)

When it dies, your cel pops on (# 14), your idle shoots up to a solid 2-2500rpm, and on/off throttle becomes really jerky (you need to slip the clutch to keep it even remotely smooth). It then needs to be replaced. If its not totally shot, you can just reset the cel and it will work for a little while longer (before it pops back on).

hey I jsut read at honda tech, your iacv is still fucked up, do you have an DMM check the resistance of the valve I think it should be like 12ohms, check both of them your old one and the new one
connect 12 volts directly to the valve see if it clicks open

yeah, shits all f*cked up...
I just put my hand on the valve to start up earlier today and it does click open
Its so weird...Im checking the wires this weekend. If thats not it I dont know what else to check!

is the car at least drivable, how bad does it surge??

yeah, I can drive it...its weird since the cel only comes on at what seems random times

the surging off/on throttle at that point makes it drive like its my first day with a manual transmission if I dont seriously over slip the clutch