i need a new clutch and stuff HELp please!
 

Hey all, im going to get a clutch installed in mycivic, but what all should i do at the time i get the clutch installed? And also, how are the exedy clutches? I'm pretty rough on my clutch and i need a good one. ALso i think ima do the timing belt too cuz i have a 97 civic w/ 115k on it and it has original belt in it. What else should i have done? Flywheel? and also whats he bearing called that is right on the fork part when you push the clutch down b4 u shift? is that the release bearing? Thanks a lot for putting up w/ my newbiness. Thanks

i think that you should get an aftermarket flywheel along with your new clutch. you have to open up your transmission anyways..might as well put in a new flywheel.. as far as how exedy clutches, i have no clue...

you might want to check out a chilton manual if you plan on changin' your clutch by yourself...

97 civic is no problem to replace clutch in, i have a 97 civic EX and have replaced my clutch several times, (DONT BUY CHEAP CLUTCHES) GET A GOOD CLUTCH I drive VERY VERY hard and have also had to replace my transmission cause the damn thang cant handle my hard shifts

if u are mechanically inclined u can do the clutch with proper tools in 4-6 hours (my best time is 3 and 1/2 hours)
JEREMY can vouch on this for me
DO NOT break the clutch fluid line u can unbolt it and move it aside, haynes or chiltons will tell u to losen it (this will make u have to bleed it later OF WHICH CAN BE A PAIN IN THE ASS) if u do decide to bleed it get a vacuum bleeder ( u can get one from sears for $50)

ACT HAVE GREAT CLUTCHES and lightened flywheels
IF U HAVE AIM U MESSAGE ME,....NAME IS......DANYERUDONO
oR U CAN PM ME FOR Prices

Re: i need a new clutch and stuff HELp please!
 

Get a lightened flywheel! Exedy clutches are very good, theyre Honda OEM, you have to ask yourself though "Am i going to leave my car mostly stock with just boltons or am i going to run forced induction later on?".If your going to keep things about stock(just boltons then a OEM clutch will be fine, if you chose the latter then get an upgraded clutch.

Your OVERDUE on changing your timing belt, DO IT NOW! while thats being done also replace the water pump and any other worn out belts.

the bearing is called the throw out bearing, Replace it.

im going to be needing a new clutch soon, too... my throw out bearing is as annoying as hell... it squeals when you feather the clutch... grrr.... anyway, what does OEM stand for?

OEM stands for Original Eguipment something or another. Its what the manufacture puts in the car.

Clutch Masters!!!!!!!:yes:

hey
 

can someone suggest a certain flywheel and clutch for me to get? thanks peace

oh yeah, i was debating on the exedy or another one i cant remember what it was, but anyways, i don't wanna spend more than $250 or so on a clutch/flywheel combo. THanks, peace

Get an Oem exedy clutch, about $110 and a factory lightened flywheel from www.sohfast.com which is about $125 or so plus a core charge that you get back after sending your stock flywheel back.

If you plan on making serious power upgrades you'll want an upgraded clutch which by itself is at least 250$. But with just bolt ons what I said above will be fine.

hey sounds good, but exedyis OEM? SO is the stock clutch in my car now an exedy too? i"m confused, so clear this up please...thanks, and i am abusive on the clutch,so i need someething good. Thanks

yeah the one in your car right now should be an exedy. Mine lasted almost 100k miles alot of which was hard driving. I could have kept it in but it wasnt grabbing like it should when I switch gears quickly.

also its a good time to change your tranny oil, get Honda's MTF. DO NOT use redlines shit for tranny oil.

hey
 

thanks or the advice everyone. Looks like im goin w/ the lightened flywheel and the exedy. THanks, later

I bought the exedy racing clutch for $260 from clutchcityonline it is better than the oem for $105 if you drive real hard I suggest getting a better than stock clutch.

OEM = Original Engine Manufacturer but pretty much what AZ said but thats what it stands for

Clutchmasters

says it all in the name!!!

Ravingcivic, 3.5 with power tools or wrist tools???

If with wrist tools, I'm there with you.

OPAKRACING----good choice.................

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer

Why not do it right and replace the flywheel, cluth disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing at once. Oh and I would replace the timing belt before it fails and you get bent valves, usually replace a timing belt around 90 to 100,000 miles.

I was thinking of replacing my clutch sometime in the future, but isn't clutchmasters set like $700+

yeah i just got an exedy kit(plate, t.o. bearing, cover, flywheel,etc.) on ebay for like $200 or so. That'll do for now, cuz im probably gonna sell the car soon.

I just did my 95 EX two weekends ago... Total install time: 24 hours (this included a few hours running around, picking up parts and tools and scratching my head). It wasn't too hard, except getting the tranny back on. That was an absolute nightmare.

I installed a Clutchmasters Stage 1 clutch and a Fidenza aluminum flywheel. They're breaking in nicely and I should be kicking it in about another 200 miles (when it's through the break in period). I saw a combo package on www.groupbuycenter.com for around $499 shipped...

Followed my Chilton's manual & this link for how to do it. The examples is a B18, but there wasn't too much of a difference from a D16. If you do it yourself, make sure you have all the tools before you start and have someone help. Extra hands are a good thing.

Good luck!

Hey thanks for the advice...i just have a regular exedy stock clutch/flywheel coming so im just gonna get someone to install that for me. I never did anything major on my car b4 so i don;t wanna screw anythingup...my luck i'd take it apart and wouldn'tbe able to put i back together:( So i guess i'll take it to a mechanic...thanks and peace

Well, I didn't have much choice. My wife freaked when I told her how much the parts were going to be :mad: She would've killed me if I spent another couple a hundred bucks to have it installed.

he
 

hey, yeah i think i'd give it a try but i have never done anything of this nature on a car before...never really worked on oneto be honest....ihave a manual, but i dunno. My mom's bf is a mechanic but i dont think he'd help me w/ it...so that leaves me to go spend $300 or so for this...i also need a timing belt installed too...thanks for the input

Ha! I just did my timing belt too...

That was a lot of fun :pukey Easier than the clutch, but still a pain...

hey wally....did you do anything else while you did the clutch/timing belt? I'm also very concerned on one thing...when i shift into second, there is some friction going on there...some peeps told me its the clutch altogether, and if i replace that it should be okay....but then some say its the bushings or whatever in there...anyone can you help? thanks

Its probably the second gear synchro, is it making a crunching sound when you shift quickly into second? If it is you'll have to take it to a tranny shop and have them open it up and replace them.

hey
 

i was told that already too...the place where in gettin clutch in will do that...any idea what itll cost me? thanks, any guesss would be very appreciated thanks

I actually did a Cam Gear install first (AEM Adjustable Cam Gear). I got grease on the timing belt during the install and after a week of driving, it was getting very loose and stretched out so I replaced it. A lot of people recommend doing the water pump at the same time because it's a huge pain to get to the belt, and the water pump is right there too. If you're gonna have someone else do it for you, I'd have that done in addition to the belt. In the long run, you should save some dough on the labor costs if your water pump ever goes out...

As far as a clutch, I replaced the Flywheel, clutch plates, throw out bearing & flywheel bearing (everything the kits came with). You might be able to use your existing flywheel, but you still have to have it resurfaced/machined. If you're going through all the trouble of having a "good" clutch put in, you may as well spend the extra money for a flywheel. It's another one of those "while you're at its"...

And I did have a little "crunch" in 2nd... but I don't notice it anymore. The reason I changed the clutch is that it would shudder when I was in 1st or 2nd gear... I guess that's called "clutch chatter"

Re: hey
 

about $100-200 to have all the synchros replaced.

Nice nice, thanks a lot everyone....yeah i did the flywheel, entire clutch stuff, timing belt and water pump.....its at the shop now, im so thrilled that its finally gettin fixed, cuz its been bad for almost a year now, heh...i only really drive around town here, so it didnt bother me. Right when i shifted....it sounded like a weedwacker or something, chattering sorta i guess...and in 2nd there was some friction, i hope the clutch will fix all that. If not, o well. I can live w/ it...Hopefully it does and i dont need synchros replaced, but if i do hey, $200 is fine by me....i thought it'd be a lot more. thanks everyone, very much appreciated...peace

hey
 

everyone....just got my car back w/ clutch, clutch plate, t.o bearing, timing belt, water pump, etc. installed...good thing is i needed timing belt and water pump...turns out the clutch that was in it origianlly had a lot of like left in it, grrrr.. anyways my squeek si gone, but the weedwacker type sound is still there right before i shift.....someone told me maybe somethin in the gearbox was loose? any help?

i'd take it to a good tranny shop and see what they say. then get ready to shovel out more money.

bah
 

i was thinking engine swap maybe next spring tho.....

or you could just buy a used tranny thats in good shape for a couple hundred dollars.

I say drive it till it dies... I've had my tranny whirring and grinding for YEARS now and it still does fine...

Oh... AZ what do you have against redline mtl? this is now 2 of my favorite products you don't like... por qua?

Re: bah
 

Next spring is a ways away, but if you're going to swap, start saving money like crazy in case the tranny dies early, but otherwise, just drive it until you swap IMO.

well after a few months of running it I noticed a weird whining noise at 2500, 3000 and 4000rpms which I didnt think much of til it got worse and then it started to piss me off. I took the car to the shop and they said it was the bearings. so after awhile of looking on the internet I came across alot posts of people complaining about redline MTL, then it clicked. Redline is the reason my tranny's bearing are screwed and why there's a "next step" in my sig. Now I will only use Honda's tranny oil or Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30.